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Route Description


From the base camp Achik-Tash to Lukovaya Polana (Onion field), is a one hour hike along an dirt road, but can be covered in a vehicle. Then a good trail over Travelers' Pass, continuing at the foot of the slope of the spurs on the right side of Lenin Glacier, arrives at camp  1 (ABC) after 4 or 5 hours. Camp 1 is located on the glacial moraine of Lenin Peak. Before reaching the moraine, it is necessary to cross a river.

Usually, it is necessary to leave Camp 1 for Camp 2 an hour before sunrise, in order to avoid the heat and wet snow.  Crossing the moraine, coming to the bottom of Northern Slope, it is necessary put on mountaineering boots and for members of the party to tether together. It is important that the length of the rope between mountaineers should not be less than 10 meters.  The ascent should be achieved by the Northern sharp slope, to the left of the icefall, avoiding multiple ice crevices. The most difficult and dangerous places should be equipped with a parapet. The upper part of the route goes to the right, before the big ice plateau named Skovorodka.  It is necessary to cross the plateau from the left to the right. Camp 2, lies at an altitude of 5300 meters, on the upper moraine at the foot of the Northern-West crest. The time from camp  1 to camp  2 is usually 7-9 hours.

From camp  2, the route takes a steep ascent to the North-Western crest. Then the route bears left before the sharp summit of Razdelnaya mountain. Camp 3 is located on the wide dome of the Peak, at the altitude 6100 meters above the sea level. The time from camp 2 to camp  3 is usually 4-6 hours.

From the camp  3, the route descends to the col and then, by a sharp  ascent, to the wide Western crest of Lenin Peak, (here, there is a possibility to establish camp  4 at an altitude of 6400  meters, and keeping to the left side of the ridge, ascends slowly to the top. Over the sharp (45 degrees) 80 meter long Nozh (Knife) ice crest, and though a vast, flat and  icy plateau (named Parashutist), the route comes to flat rocky hills.  As there is no other evident landmark, in conditions of poor visibility it is very easy to become lost.

On the summit itself, there is a bust of Lenin. Very important principle: if the summit is not reached before 2 oclock in the afternoon - it  is necessary, immediately, to turn and start the decent to the storm camp (Camp 3 or 4).


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