Lenin Peak 2019. Live reporting
We have great news for you, dear friends!
Now we are starting to post interesting, useful and just fun information from the slopes of Lenin Peak.
Report 40. 30 August
So the season of climbing Lenin Peak 2019 has come to an end! Silence was unusual in the camp for all.
After the gala dinner, the camp staff conserves the camps and prepares for their departure home.
Our dear participants of climbing Lenin Peak 2019, we express our deep gratitude for choosing our company, for your trust and participation in the life of the camp!
We will be very happy to consider your comments (complaints and suggestions). Thanks to your feedback, we do not stand still and every year we try to improve our service. Send your letters to firstname.lastname@example.org
See you at Achik-Tash Base Camp in 2020!
Report 39. 22 August
After prolonged bad weather, the mountain is finally calm. The wind calmed down, the sun came out and our climbers advanced to the top. More than 40 people went up the mountain on August 21, of which 28 people climbed Lenin Peak.
We invite you to familiarize yourself with the final list of climbers from Ak-Sai Travel to one of the most popular seven-thousandths at the link: http://ak-sai.com/wp-content/uploads/list-of-ascenders-2019.pdf
Report 38. 14 August
Today, August 14, the final fixed group of climbers went to Lenin Peak in 2019 to Achik-Tash base camp. And this means that the end of the season is coming soon.
We wish the participants of the ascent of a safe expedition and good weather.
Report 37. 9 August
Group ascent of military personnel of athletes of the Armed Forces of the Member States of the Commonwealth of Independent States to Lenin Peak 7134m.
On the night of August 7-8, the combined team of the Armed Forces of the Russian Federation, consisting of groups of military personnel-athletes of the Armed Forces of the Member States of the Commonwealth of Independent States, made a friendly ascent to Lenin Peak 7134 m (Kyrgyz Republic), dedicated to the 75th anniversary of Victory in the Great Patriotic War 1941-1945
As part of the group, 5 athletes of the RF Armed Forces team, 6 representatives of the Uzbek Armed Forces team and 3 members of the Kyrgyz team took part in the climb.
“Since July 22 we have been acclimatized in the Achik-Tash base camp, located at an altitude of 3600 m above sea level. The climb began on August 4. We passed three alpine camps at altitudes of 4400 m, 5300 m and 6100 m. And on the night of August 7-8 they climbed the peak. Unfortunately, due to a mountain sickness, one of the athletes of the RF Armed Forces team was sent down from the second camp, and only four continued to rise, ”said Captain Captain Lenin Peak, the head of the mountain training instructors department head, climbing the peak. Nikolay Bogdanov. “We were lucky with the weather, it was just the most ideal for climbing.”
Congratulations on the mountain! We wish you further success!
Report 36. 4-6 August
On August 5, 2019, the highest mountain race in the world with a finish at Lenin Peak (7134 m) was held as part of the #LeninRace festival! Summing up the Lenin Peak Sky Marathon 2019!
Participants started on August 5 at 4 in the morning! In total, 14 skyrunners🌍 were launched. Among them are 3 girls. The peaks of Lenin’s peak managed to reach seven participants.
And now, after 5 hours and 10 minutes, the first runner, the famous skyruner from Australia, Dominik Salcher (Salewa Team), finished. The second 🥈 among men was Pasang Sherpa from Nepal – 5 hours 51 minutes, and the third from Kyrgyzstan Vyacheslav Sheiko (Slava Topol) came to the finish line – 7 hours 4 minutes.
Among women, the first to the finish line came Oksana Stefanishina (TNF Team) from Russia with a time of 8 hours 10 minutes! The second runner-up from Spain, Belen Doñate, finished at 9:05 a.m. The protocol of the competition will be published in the coming days on the site lenin-race.com
Congratulations to all participants in the high-speed climb to Lenin Peak 2019! We wish you success in other starts and look forward to seeing you all next year!
Report 35. July 29 – August 3
So the peak of the season 2019 has come! In each of the base camps of our company there are more than one hundred climbers who are preparing for the ascent and are waiting for their “window to Lenin Peak”. Camp staff courageously withstand a large flow of customers and do their best for your comfort and safety.
From the news. In the period from July 29 to August 3, 19 people climbed the summit. The list of climbers to Lenin Peak for the month of July has already been published on our website http://ak-sai.com/wp-content/uploads/Voshoditeli-na-peak-Lenina-2019.pdf
In addition, during this time there were totally 7 rescue operations, some using a helicopter. Thanks to the operational work, the unit was rescued, all patients received timely medical care. At the moment, the victims are transported home, where they continue rehabilitation.
Friends, the team of Ak-Sai Travel is always happy to come to your aid! Take care of yourself!
Репортаж 34. July 28
Friends, as you already know on the lake located in our base camp, we have opened a new fun – riding on the SUP-board.
So, in the framework of the #LeninRace festival on July 28, 2019, we held the first high-mountain international paddleboarding competitions.
With great, I must say success. Friendship won!
We hope this fun will become an annual sporting event at the foot of Lenin Peak!
Report 33. July 25-27
There is a historical moment of extreme sports taking place at Pamir Mountains – #LeninRace festival.
The final discipline is the highest mountain race in the world, the race with the finish at Lenin Peak (7134 meters above sea level) starts early in the morning on August 4th.
There was a race on July 27 – some kind of preparation to the main start, competition for athletes who can run long and very fast (just to run!!!)
At the altitude 4 thousands and more – 24 km race.
Start is at 3600 m in Achik Tash Base Camp, 12 km of extreme run up to 4400 m altitude (Base camp for ascensions #1), turn and run back to the starting altitude 3600m).
More then 10 countries – from USA and Nepal to Italy and Greece sent their participants to this unique race.
I do run marathons, and might be not bad for my age of 62 y.o., that’s why I understand clearly what means to run this race for 2 hours 41 min 30 sec!!!
It took just this time for Russian athlete Pavel Chernov to become a winner. There were two more champions at the podium – Stanislav Mamanov from Kazakhstan and Peter Masal from Czech Republic.
And now let me tell you about my favorite heroine – a winner among women – one of the best skyrunners of the world Oksana Stephanishina 🥇 came to finish in 2 hours 59 min 56 sec(!!!).
The main thing of her victory is that two days before she ascended Lenin Peak. 🤩And she is a super-athlete because of her planed participation in the main race on August 4th. Respect!!!
Two more winners – Iva Dolechkova from Czech Republic and Julia Morozova from Kazakhstan.
That’s all news for now from 4400 m altitude
Have a look at the pictures! I tried to match.
Photo by Andrey Chepakin
Report 32. July 23
These days, the weather has stabilized, moderate night frost trails snow, it is hot in the afternoon, and the wind is moderate.
Right now is the best time for climbing and it will last until about August 20. Only this night more than forty of our climbers reached the summit.
Some of our people are again involved in regular rescue operations.
Someone continues to acclimatize, ascend to Yukhin peak, to camps 2 and 3.
The glacier near camp 1 threw off a snow blanket and now you can train at the mini-training ground, where there are cracks, snow, ice, ice walls of varying complexity.
Report 31. July 21
And again, interesting news!
For all travelers – guests of the Achik-Tash Valley, we set up bright information signs on the route from the base camp to camp 1. While on Lukovaya Polyana, the Travelers Pass or the fork in front of the first camp, you can find out about the current altitude, distance in kilometers and time walk to every high camp, and to the top! Information is placed on both sides of the signs.
We carefully thought over the installation sites and placed shields in the best photo points of the route. Passing by, stop, look around and take pictures in these places. Send these pictures to relatives and friends. Let them be pleased not only with your personal accomplishments, but also with beautiful landscapes behind your back!
Report 30. July 20
Friends! We love to please you with news and again we have had an exclusive event of its kind. Our two guides, Alexander Chechulin and Andrei Korneev, climbed the peak of Lenin! What is exclusive, you ask? And the fact that the guys did not climb along the classical route, but along the path near the Lipkin path. We met with climbers along the way between the high-altitude camps and they briefly told us about this event.
Alexander: We have considered this climbing option many times, looked at the slope, waited for favorable weather and a few days off from the main work. And so, in some miraculous way, all circumstances lined up in the right chain and we went on the assault.
Andrew: We went along the trodden path, overcame cracks in the place of the “zigzag” and a little more rising turned left to the side of the stone “broom”. Having hardly made their way through deep snow, we decided to spend the night at its base.
Alexander: Climbing up the stones was not possible, we took to the left of the “panicle” and went in the snow. All day, like moles, we dug a tunnel, being up to the neck in the snow. For all the time they scored no more than five hundred meters in height and set up a second camp at about mid-height of all this stone placer.
Andrew: We already wondered how this adventure will end, which way to move, dig up or go down? Curiosity overcame our doubts and we again moved forward to trail in deep snow. Finally we got to the ridge, but there was no less snow there. And crawled, rowed or swam to the top. Already descended along the trodden path to the third camp.
We congratulate the guys on such an unusual ascent and are incredibly glad that our employees are always full of energy and enthusiasm for new achievements!
Report 29. July 19
Thanks to our chefs for deliciously cooking us!
This gratitude speech is familiar to many who rested in children’s summer camps and recreation centers.
We express our deep gratitude to our cheerful and friendly team of cooks in the base camp, who cut, cook, fry, and come up with different dishes from morning till night. And in the end, everyone gets gastronomic satisfaction from tasty and healthy food, as well as the highest level of service.
Sometimes we get the impression that some of our guests come to us to eat deliciously. What’s so surprising? Breakfast in Paris, lunch in Vienna, dinner at the Achik-Tash base camp of Ak-Sai Travel!
Report 28. July 18
Mountaineering is associated with a certain degree of risk to human life and health. Glacier cracks, avalanches, hypothermia, fatigue and other factors are constantly near the climbers.
There is one more important circumstance – height. A lot of research has been done in this direction, a lot of scientific papers have been written. Many different training systems have been created, but no matter how trained a climber is, mountain sickness may or may not occur.
This morning, one of our climbers, who is in the third high-altitude camp (6100m), has sharply deteriorated health. During his examination and with the help of radio communication with the doctor, brain swelling was previously detected. After providing the necessary medical care, the victim was “packed” into a rescue mission and several people began an emergency descent.
Reaching the camp 2 (5300m), the victim was additionally connected to the oxygen cylinder and 9 people of our team continued their descent. Fortunately, there was no fresh snow, which somewhat simplified the work. Masterfully coping with overcoming a large number of cracks, the team went out to the glacier, where our doctor and horses were waiting for them for further transportation. And by six o’clock in the evening the victim came under the control of a doctor in the base camp. By this time, his condition had improved significantly, he was already able to eat a little and after the examination he was transported to a hospital in the city of Osh. We wish him a speedy recovery!
Friends! We are glad that you set big goals, such as climbing Lenin Peak or other peaks. We wish you the full realization of your dreams.
We ask you to be attentive even to the most insignificant changes in your body, always to inform our employees, guides, high-altitude camp attendants, and doctors about your condition in advance.
We will always come to the rescue and it is better to render it as soon as possible, and even better, to completely prevent negative consequences.
We wish you a successful ascent!
Report 27. July 17
Astronomy news and something more.
On the night of July 27-28, the longest lunar eclipse of the 21st century occurred.
In Bishkek time, the eclipse began on July 28 at 00.24 and ended at 04.20 – its duration was 3 hours 56 minutes. The total phase of the eclipse lasted 1 hour and 44 minutes (from 01.30 to 03.14).
During the total phase of the eclipse, the Moon plunged into the Earth’s shadow and, according to astronomers’ predictions, should have acquired a purple-red hue. Why this phenomenon is called the “bloody” Moon. But the moon outwitted the scientists and the blush on her cheeks was not noticed.
From our base camp it was impossible to trace this event completely, since the moon hides behind the peak of Petrovsky most of the night. But our expeditionary photographer specifically went to the Alai Valley for 10 kilometers to show pictures of the eclipse of the night star, stars, Lenin Peak in the moonlight by morning.
And while some were fast asleep, and someone was taking pictures … On this moonlit night, many climbers moved towards the summit. And by lunchtime, two climbers from Spain did not just reach the summit, but returned to the Achik-Tash base camp! How is this possible, you ask? From the summit they went skiing and after 45 minutes were in camp 1, and a few hours later in the valley.
Every year more and more extreme people come to us. They walk, run, crawl up. With skis and paplanas. Still not enough to climb up with the bike. Who will do it first?
Report 26. July 16
When the chubby beauty Moon appears in the sky, the climbers happily turn their eyes towards the mountains. Still would! Indeed, in a series of days with constantly changing weather there were only a few opportunities to go towards the top!
And here came the auspicious days! After all, it is on the days of the full moon that the weather is stable. And the groups of already acclimatized climbers began a massive migration towards high altitude camps and peaks. Began a massive assault!
Trails have long been trodden, marked, railing hung, all high-altitude camps are provided with all the necessary.
Forward, friends, to your dream!
Report 25. July 15, part 2
Continuation of the report on the first ascent to Lenin Peak in the 2019 season.
Volodya: Beginning with the height of 6400, the snow became less, up to about thirty centimeters. Everyone who walked with us and had the strength for that, in turn, began to follow the path. Together we managed to secure the railing on the “knife.” Now there is a 50 meter safety rope …
Natasha: During this time, in such conditions, we are all very tired. It was still cold and from time to time I caught myself on the fact that even in motion my eyes began to stick together. The same thing happened with other guys. Part of our work was done, we appreciated our strength, time and continued on our way to the top.
Volodya: At a height of 6,800 meters, a group of climbers from Denmark turned around, and everyone who continued on his way up stretched along the slope. At 12:40, Natasha and I left our marks next to Lenin’s bust this season. A climber from a nearby camp rose a few minutes earlier. We spent a lot of strength on treading the path for others, and we didn’t have the goal to be on top before someone else. We did our job well and several more people came up behind us, including the client of our company – solo mountaineer Patrick.
Natasha: The return trip was also not easy. The strong wind did not stop, everything was also cold. And only after the “knife” the wind subsided a bit and the sun warmed well. Strongly tired, we returned to the third camp at 17.30. And the most difficult part for me was the final ascent from the saddle to an altitude of 6300 meters.
We congratulate Volodya and Natasha on their first seven thousandth, thank you for the work done to ensure the safety of our customers and wish the guys strength, health and good mood!
The climbing season is in full swing, more and more people are arriving at our camps, our team’s work is increasing.
We wish every climber to get to the top and safely return to the base camp. Summit cakes, commemorative medallions and certificates of climbing will be enough for everyone.
Report 25. July 14, part 1
Friends! We promised you an interview with our first climbers on Lenin Peak this season. “Ak-Sai Travel” said – “Ak-Sai Travel” did! We met up with the guys at base camp when they came down to rest.
Our friendly team arranged a truly welcoming meeting for the pioneers. Under the universal rejoicing, like astronauts from a capsule, the guys got out of our expeditionary truck and immediately fell into the strong embrace of friends.
And what an amazing Summit cake baked our pastry chef! Real jam!
And now, after all, in a good way, exciting circumstances, in a calm atmosphere, we talked with Volodya Lyamin and Natasha Belyankina (we were very impatient to learn the details of this ascent).
Volodya: For a long time it was necessary to trot, inspect, mark the route to the top and hang the railing on a steep rise called the “knife”. For many days, our team did not allow the weather to do this. In the third high-altitude camp, we were already a few days, when the opportunity arose to go upstairs.
Natasha: We took a rope, a snow shovel, bags, and at three in the morning we left the camp. The sensations were twofold, at that moment we did not know how high we could get. There was a strong frost, the wind was blowing at a speed of about 60 km / h and on sensations, the temperature reached minus 25 degrees.
Volodya: Together with us came a group of clients of our company and climbers from a neighboring company. A total of about 30 people. But already on takeoff to an altitude of 6400 m, people greatly stretched out and there were only a few people left in the front row.
Natasha: The weather was very harsh – a strong wind lifted frozen snow nuggets and constantly threw them in the face, at short stops I had to swing my arms to keep warm. I waited for the sun to come out and get warmer. The sun came out, but the situation did not change, the wind did not abate, and ice crystals continued to cut through the air.
Read our conversation in tomorrow’s report.
Report 24. July 13
We have a change of weather again. In the base camp it rained all night and most of the day. A little higher – hail and snow rained down. And on this beautiful day we want to share with you the wonderful piece by Andrei Usachov “The Snail”.
Дождик лил как из ведра.
Я открыл калитку
И увидел средь двора
Говорю ей: — Посмотри
Ты ведь мокнешь в луже…
А она мне изнутри:
— Это ведь снаружи!
А внутри меня весна,
День стоит чудесный! —
Отвечала мне она
Из скорлупки тесной.
Говорю: — Повсюду мрак
Не спастись от стужи! —
А она в ответ: — Пустяк.
Это ведь снаружи!
А внутри меня уют:
Птицы дивные поют
И блестят стрекозы!
— Что ж, сиди сама с собой
Я сказал с улыбкой
И простился со смешной
Дождь закончился давно.
Солнце — на полмира…
А внутри меня темно,
Холодно и сыро.
Friends! We wish that in your soul, regardless of the weather and circumstances, the sun always shines and roses bloom!
Report 23. July 12
It seems that in our area the weather begins to stabilize. The sun is shining more often, thunderstorm clouds have been replaced by fluffy snow-white clouds driven by a light breeze.
Groups of alpinists began mass migration to high-altitude camps. And although today no one has reached the peak, soon we will begin making lists of climbers taking photos with the bust of Lenin. Find the names of your friends in the lists posted on our site.
On the lake located in our base camp we have created a new activity – riding on the SUP-board. And now absolutely every guest of our company can frolic and have fun on the water for free.
Want to try yourself on a paddle board? Come to Achik-Tash Base Camp!
In conclusion, we are sharing with you a new thematic work from camp leader Mikhail Homenyuk (click here to learn more about his work https://www.litprichal.ru/work/341625/ )
По заоблачной глади озёр я плыву на доске.
Или может лечу? И весло вместо крыльев в руке.
В горный снег облаков погружаю в полёте весло.
В отражении видно, как мне в этот день повезло.
Потому, что всегда, когда сказка сбывается в жизнь,
За спиной облака, и вода за кормою бежит,
Сомневаться не надо, возможен ли этот полёт,
Если в этот момент совершается счастье твоё.
Report 22. July 11
We continue to delight you with great news, dear friends!
As a report for today, July 11, the Lenin Peak – 7134m was ascended at 12:40 p.m.!
The mountain was climbed for the first time in the 2019 season and we are proud that these guys are from Ak-Sai Travel.
Vladimir Lyamin, Natalya Belyankina, and our guest from Liverpool Patrick Halford! We are sincerely happy for you and congratulate you on this event from the bottom of our hearts! We wish you strength, joy and achieving new landscapes from other peaks all over the planet!
We will learn from the guys all the details about the ascent in the coming days and surely will share with you.
Well, the path to the top is beaten, marked and explored! Go ahead, climbers! And we are here to help you in every possible way.
We wish you all a good season!
Report 21. July 10
Мы снова на связи и сейчас для вас крутющие погодные новости!
We are in touch again to share cool weather news with you!
Last night a Storm came to visit us! And if afternoon it was only a little naughty, but in the evening and especially at night it played out pretty hard. But let’s get everything in its order.
The strongest downpours visited the Achik-Tash base camp and the entire area was literally flooded with water. But the correct location of the tents, as well as coordinated work of our team ensured us a success in keeping the situation under control. There is still warm and comfortable in the tents where our guests live, the dining tent is in order as usual and the food is as tasty as ever.
Starting from the Travelers’ Pass, the path from the base to the first camp was covered with a small snowball, which melted by lunchtime, turning some parts of the path into mud medley. On half an hour’s walk to the first camp in snow fields, the depth of snow in some places reaches 1.2 meters.
In first camp all the tents were shaken off from the snow twice a night but still by morning it fell about twenty centimeters.
In second camp, it fell up to 30 cm of snow during the night. The trail to second camp above the “zigzag” with cracks was covered by several small avalanches. Also, several avalanches moved to the “pan”. In the morning over the northern slope of Lenin Peak were counted more than twenty signs of avalanche.
It is impossible to accurately estimate the thickness of the snow in the third high-altitude camp. In some places its thickness is up to 30–40 cm, and in some places the tents are covered by snow at half its height.
Despite the sudden raging of the storm, the consequences of its stay in all our camps are eliminated and the functionality is restored. Our team continues to work on marking the route and fixing the railing from a height of 6100 to the top. Groups of climbers work according to their programs.
Report 20. July 9
Nevertheless, we are all very well near Lenin Peak! Sometimes you get up before down, walk an hour on the glacier, put on the crampons and climb higher, about five thousands meters above sea level. Nothing’s better than sitting on the slope and viewing the indescribable beauty around!
Shining sun, standing mountains, floating clouds and people, going up and down.
How amazing it is in the second camp! There is heat in the daytime and snowstorms at nights. No wonder that this place is called a “frying pan”. The next morning you can walk to the third camp. This is not far away, just like a stone’s throw. Of course, there is not so hot, but the storms are stronger during the nights.
The routes between all the camps are marked with our flag poles, the railings over the cracks and on steep sections are well fixed. There is where to take a walk. And as you get to our camps, the attendants will give you tea. As in the best hotels, guests are offered welcome drink upon arrival.
The weather these days in high altitude camps is changeable. Before lunchtime it is clear with small clouds, and wind and snow afternoon. Under the sun snow is being actively melted in vast territories, a part of the water evaporates forming clouds, which daily lavishly give snow and rain in the valley.
But all this does not scare you, right? After all, walks in the mountains and climbing are beautiful in any weather. And we will take care of quality service for you!
Report 19. July 8
There are a lot of tourist photos on the Internet now with pictures of legs, climbing crampons or shoes sticking out of the tent in the direction of the landscape.
For certain reasons, we do not take such pictures. Well right, why fill up the information space with the next hundred new and old shoes?
Look at these landscapes from our first high-altitude camp. And if your sensitive soul lacks color and shades – come to us, rise to the first camp and enjoy sunrises and sunsets, as they say, without intermediaries in the form of a monitor. And what are the stars and the Milky Way! But let’s leave it for the next time.
Report 18. July 7
As Aleksandr Vasilyevich Suvorov once said: it is hard to learn, it is easy in battle!
Snow-ice activities are an integral part of the climbing program. Regardless of the experience of our clients, we always conduct such training at a certain stage of the program. This allows you to see the skills of each participant, teach the necessary actions and coordinated work of the whole group, and much more.
It so happened that this season, our favorite training glacier near first camp is still covered with a thick snow blanket and there is no one, even the smallest patch, where you can screw an ice drill or bite the crampons into.
But, as they say, seek and you shall find! Now we have a spare place to train. There are vertical walls and gentle slopes, there is where to slip and chop off with an ice pick, to walk in bundles. A little dirty, you say? But effectively and our customers are happy!
Report 17. July 6
Well now a couple of words about our doctors.
Doctor is a very necessary person here and a good high-altitude doctor is as good as gold indeed.
Our high-altitude professional doctors arrived at the base camp with the very first team and immediately began to equip the infirmary, make up first-aid kits and participate in acclimatization ascents.
From the very first days the climbers arrived to 1 camp, our high-altitude doctor has a lot of work. There always was a queue to measure pressure, to get a pill for a headache and also night rescue operations.
Yesterday we have had an accident. A client from a neighboring company near 3 camp, at an altitude of 6100m had cerebral edema. The medical aid was provided but he was immobilized and a couple of people began to descend him to 2 camp. Our duty officers joined the rescue work, connected the victim to our reserve oxygen cylinder and accompanied him to the glacier at an altitude of 4500m. In the late evening four people from our team at 1 camp, including our doctor with a first-aid kit moved towards them. By common efforts, the victim was taken to the camp of company that organized the ascend.
The climbers are not always ready for non-standard situations that happen in extreme conditions.
For many years the life and health of numerous people were saved by virtue of the professional, well-coordinated work of our rescue team. We try to help everyone, not dividing our ascenders into our or other companies clients. Collaborate with professionals!
Report 16. July 5
Well, now let’s go conquer the Yukhin peak!
These days there is almost no snow left in the 1 camp and surrounding slopes. It is the best time for walks to the Yukhin peak (5100m) that begin after breakfast about nine o’clock and end closer to the lunchtime.
But it is well known, that a lot of snow felt this year. The snow often thawed and froze and now looks like wet granules throughout its one and a half meter thickness with a thin crust on the surface. We couldn’t make a snowman out of this snow, but falling down into it you can actually swim, because there is water under the snow.
If you want to climb this peak, we recommend leaving the camp at four in the morning and returning back to nine. There is enough time for a leisurely ascent and it is really better to cross snow fields on the way to Domashniy Peak and from its summit to the foot of Yukhin Peak through frozen snow.
Coming back yet by 10 o’clock in the morning there are big chances to fall repeatedly into snow traps. The Yukhin slope itself is 90% melted, the snow is just under the summit and the southern side of the Domashniy peak is also earthy and rocky.
The path from 1 camp (including the glacier on the way) to 2 and 3 camps is still under a thick snow layer and the cracks on the slopes are still passable. Ropes in these places are fixed, but soon it will be necessary to fix the stairs.
Report 15. July 4
The snow is through the roof! This is the best way of describing the situation in 1 camp. Although it is quite sunny during the day, the snow actually is not going to melt and huge snowdrifts surround the tents from all sides. All that is missing here is Christmas tree and you have all to celebrate the New Year.
After lunch it started to hail or snow, can’t tell you exactly. In the distance, there is a rumble of thunder or avalanches. No way to make something out, because the sky is tightly covered with gray mist.
The lounge area was excavated by common effort of our team. It is a beloved place to relax, from which you can admire the views of the glacier, the peaks of Lenin, Yukhin and others, sitting in a down jacket and sipping hot tea from a thermos.
The camp has high-speed Wi-Fi, do not miss the opportunity to send beautiful photos to relatives and friends.
By the way, tomorrow we will conduct another exploration on the peak of Yukhin and in the evening we will share with you fresh information.
Report 14. July 3
A couple words about our doctors.
Doctor is a very necessary person here and a good high-altitude doctor is as good as gold indeed.
Our high-altitude professional doctors arrived at the base camp with the very first team and immediately began to equip the infirmary, make up first-aid kits and participate in acclimatization ascents
With the arrival of the first climbers, a first-aid post will already be functioning in the 1 high-altitude camp. For any health question, be sure to consult our doctors.
We wish you stay strong!
Report 13. July 2
Kamurza and Shishiga
You probably never heard these words, right? Well, we reveal some secrets for you, dear friends!
Kamurza is the name of our friend, who is just a good man and a great driver.
Shishiga (as people call it) or GAZ-66 (official name) is a military all-terrain vehicle manufactured by the USSR.
Although both of them are not young, they do their work in a timely manner, carrying the climbers from the base camp to Lukovaya Polyana and back. And this, dear friends, is very important, because you should save your strength from the first days of your expedition to the top. Believe me, your strength will be useful to you.
Do you have your own methods of saving the energy and the strength in the mountains?
Report 12. July 1
It’s frosty and sunny, but still amazing day today!
After yesterday’s showers, the wind dispersed the thunderclouds over the base camp and the night was starry and warm.
This afternoon is warm and clear. In the high-altitude camps, the snow didn’t melt due to the night frost. The thickness of the snow cover still remains fairly large, up to three meters in some places. It makes the work in camps, as well as movement along the route very difficult. For example, these days the journey from the second camp to the third for the experienced Nepalese Sherpas takes six hours. Under more favorable conditions, they run up in an hour and a half.
But we setting up the tents. At the moment, 16 tents have already been set up in the second camp, six in the third and another twelve have already been fixed.
This year we will try to provide maximum comfort for our guests. We are planning, as far as it is possible, to accommodate one person per tent in the high-altitude camp. Several groups of climbers are acclimatizing yet on the slopes of Lenin Peak.
Report 11. June 30
Night salvage operations
This day together with the thunderclouds, brought us another event.
In the morning a group of climbers went to 1 camp. By evening, one of them was very indisposed and was immediately given a help from our doctor. But as the situation turned out to be critical the salvage operations and urgent descent began at ten o’clock in the evening. Several of our employees suffered the victim in the direction of the base camp.
From the base camp six people and the doctor were moving forward. Having met on the trail, rescue teams set the patient on a horse and transported him down to Lukovaya Polyana. There, our driver on the all-terrain vehicle was waiting for everyone. The victim was taken to base camp.
Now the state of the injured is satisfactory. We wish him to get well and gain strength as soon as possible!
More than ten people, the all-terrain vehicle, horses and oxygen cylinders were involved in the evacuation of one person.
Our company put the safety, life and health of people in the first place. Collaborate with professionals!
Report 10. June 29
This night was rainy but warm. And all day pouring rain.
On the route from the base camp to 1 camp is passable, albeit wet and mud. You can go in trekking shoes. Directly in front of the camp are dangerous snow bridges across the river. At night there was no freezing, the snow was wet and heavy from the very morning. Walking on Peak Domashniy and Peak Yukhin is not possible yet due to the large thickness of sleet. There was no one who wanted to break through the trail with depth to the waist.
The same situation is on the way from the first to the second camp. Drama is added by snow that has not yet descended in places near the so called “frying pan”. The mountains are now, so to speak, full of snow, which should either stick together or avalanche.
Be careful when crossing the river. Water undermines the snow from the bottom, forming peaks. Now they are quite fragile and there are already cases of having bathes there.
Report 9. June 28
Report 9. June 28
Today we have a lot of news for you, dear friends!
The peak of Petrovsky was climbed to for the first time this season. Two climbers from Spain climbed the snow ridge to the top. We congratulate them!
Horse detachments finally made their way through the snow to the high-altitude 1 camp. Cargo delivery is adjusted. Two groups of climbers from Spain and France went to the first camp for acclimatization. Our chefs also went up. In a few days the infrastructure in the first high-altitude camp will be fully established.
Our small team has already fixed the railing and now is marking the route from camp 1 to camp 2. A few tents were set up in the second camp. Tomorrow several people are to go to Razdelnaya to set up the first tents of the third high-altitude camp! We wish the guys good luck and good weather!
Today 11 people from Denmark, led by their tour leader Rasmus, who visited the summit of Everest in May this year, spent the first acclimatization day.
The infrastructure of the base camp Achik-Tash is fully established and every day we receive more and more guests!
Keep following our reports, it will be more interesting!
Report 8. June 27
The chief of the base camp.
It is so arranged by the nature, that a man builds a house and a woman creates life and comfort.
The combination of objects with each other, the harmony of materials and the correct use of colors, the order of actions of each employee and many other factors in general create a pleasant atmosphere both in the base and in the high-altitude camps. Creating such maximum comfortable conditions directly affects the preparation for climbing and the rest of our guests. The director of Aksai-Travel Elena Kalashnikova personally visited the Achik-Tash base camp in order to check the camp’s readiness, address current tasks and strategic development in this direction both this year and in the future.
Want to see the highest level of guest service in high altitude conditions? It is not necessary to fly to France or Switzerland. Rather, come to us, to Kyrgyzstan, to the basic climbing camp “Achik-Tash”. You will be pleasantly surprised.
And do not forget your cameras, because your friends may just not believe that everything is so cool here!
Report 7. June 26
Transporter. Carrier. Courier.
He appears unexpectedly and deliver your cargo at the right time and place. Only few know how to find him. He works quietly and quickly, usually doesn’t ask any questions. Your shipment is his delivery. His horse detachment runs between base camp and camp 1 and we highly recommend using his services to save your strength for climbing.
This is M-A-M-A-S-H. That is how slowly and mysteriously his name is pronounced here.
A humble and kind-hearted man who has no offshore and islands in the ocean, but owns Mamash-Peak mountain and residence at its foot.
Do you have your own mountain? Or a mound? Well, at least a sand turtle made by a child on the beach?
Report 6. June 25
Secrets of the Achik-Tash Valley …
Do you like secrets, dear friends? Then sit back read carefully, we will open one of them for you.
Among the great number of nameless glacial lakes in the Achik-Tash valley, there is one that bears the name. That is Mikhailovo lake, which has the purest turquoise water. There is a treasured stone, peeping out of the water. According to ancient beliefs, who stands on it with bare feet in the morning, that will smile all the morning. And who jumps naked from the magic stone into the water, that will be covered with a wave of happiness and joy all day long.
Maybe because of bathing in the cherished lake every morning the head of the base camp, Mikhail Khomenyuk brings laughter and joy to people? If you notice his presence nearby, hold your breath, perhaps right now Mikhail is going to share another funny story or a joke with you.
We wish you to start every morning with joy, dear friends!
Report 5. June 24
We have amazing news to share with, dear friends!
Now you can enjoy a buffet that we organized in our base camp for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Fruits, vegetables, soups, fish, meat, sauces, jams, honey and much more… Everyone can choose what they like.
The snow clearing and tent-setting works are in full swing in the first high-altitude camp.
A group of climbers from France has already arrived at the base camp and tomorrow they will start working on acclimatization.
Report 4. June 23
News from camp 1
Today our team of guides, in order to acclimatize, made a transfer of cargo to the camp at 4300 m and returned back.
The condition of snow on the northern slope does not allow horses with cargo to pass. Local riders merrily waving their shovels while clearing the path. If in the coming days there will be warm and clear weather, approximately in 2-4 days the first horse detachment will be able to break through.
The snow on the slopes is deep and heavy, many small but unpleasant avalanches are coming off.
From the Travelers’ Pass to the camp 1 the trail is passable and it is possible to accelerate.
Due to the amount of snow this year, work in camp 1 is proceeding slowly but surely and according to plan. In a few days we will be able to receive guests.
If you are hot and dry at home, come to us sooner. We are sometimes cool and fun!
Report 3. June 22
Come urgently to our base camp to eat young wild onions!
Today’s night was snowy, and it’s snowing all day. In the morning, another squad came out to set up camp 1.
Sometimes you have to break new trails. But in some places the thickness of the snow is more than two meters and one cannot do without shovels.
On the Travelers’ Pass, the amount of snow is moderate and it is possible by now to conduct acclimatization ascents.
Aksai Travel is a team of professionals. We do everything to ensure the safety and comfort of our customers. And the first guests of this season have already arrived at Achik-Tash base camp. Congratulations to all!
Report 2. June 21
News from Achik-Tash Valley
This morning, our small team went to Camp 1 (4100 m). Snow on the trail is moderate, we got there in 5 hours. In Camp 1, the thickness of the snow reaches two meters. Camp setting works are started.
In Base Camp we continue works of improving the infrastructure.
Report 1. June 20
60 people of our team are working in the Achik-Tash base camp, at an altitude of 3600 m. A huge canteen, a kitchen, and more than 40 tents for guests and staff have already been set up.
It’s warm outside; the sun is shining all day. Everyone is in a cheerful and great mood and we wish you the same!