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Program

For the first time, Ak-Sai Trevel company offers you the chance to climb Khan-Tengri with oxygen! This unique program will not only make the ascent safer, but also increases the chances of successful ascent in a shorter time.

Duration: 12 days
Level of difficulty:  TD, TD+ 
Trip features: High-Altitude mountaineering
Best season:  July August

General information
Program

Route: Bishkek - Karkara camp - Inylchek glacier ascension period - South Inylchek Base Camp - Karkara-Bishkek.
Duration: 12 days.
Period: July August 2018


Tour program


Day 1.  Manas Airport Bishkek city.
Transfer 40 km, 1h.

Arrival at the airport. After receiving baggage and passing customs control upon arrival at the international airport "Manas", you will be met by a representative of the company "Ak-Sai Travel". You will be taken to the hotel located in the center of our capital - Bishkek.
Overnight at the hotel.

Day 2. Bishkek city Karkara base camp.
Transfer 470 km, 8-9 h. + 1500 m.

After breakfast, arrival at the office, where you will be provided with all the necessary documents, after which a transfer will be organized to the Karkara camp, along the northern coast of Lake Issyk-Kul.
On the way you will stop for lunch in the Boom Gorge or in Cholpon-Ata. You can also swim in the pearl of Kyrgyzstan - Issyk-Kul Lake, after which continue the trip to the campground at Karkara. You will be met by the head or administrator of the camp, who will settle you in two man tents.
Lunch in a roadside cafe.
Accommodation in tents. Dinner at the camp.

Day 3. Helicopter flight BC Karkara BC South Inylchek .
Flight 45 min. +1850 m.

The flight from the "Karkara" Base Camp to the "South Inylchek" Base Camp takes approximately 40-45 minutes. During the flight, you can make several excellent and memorable views. Your eyes will discover the "Merzbacher" Lake and the beauty of the "South Inylchek" glacier. You will be greeted by the camp commander Dmitry Grekov - and will introduce you to the administrator who will settle you in two man tents.
Accommodation and meals in the Base Camp.

Day 4. Ascent on the Shoulder of Habib peak (4800m.)
The hike 6-8 h. + 800 m.

Acclimatization, depart after breakfast onto the Shoulder of Habib peak under the guidance of an experienced guide. The route passes along a picturesque ridge, from which you can see beautiful views of Victory Peak, as well as the Zvezdochka and Yuzhny Inylchek glaciers.
Accommodation in a high altitude (alpine) tent.

Day 5. Descent to the Base Camp.
The hike 5-6 h. - 800 m.

Descent to Base Camp, rest. Preparation for the ascent to the camp 1, as well as familiarization with the working of the oxygen equipment. You can resolve all questions that arise with the guide or with the head of the camp.
Accommodation and meals in the Base Camp.

Day 6. The ascent to camp 1 (4200m).
The hike 3 h. + 200 m.

After lunch, leave to the first camp. The route takes place on the Southern Inylchek glacier, and takes 4-5 hours. Upon arrival, you will be accommodated in pre-installed tents and you can relax and begin preparations for the next day, during which you will continue your ascent with oxygen equipment.
Overnight in a high altitude (alpine) tent

Day 7. Ascent to the Col of Khan Tengri Peak. (5800m.)
The hike 8-10 h. + 1600 m.

Depart with oxygen equipment onto the Col. The route passes through the Semenovsky glacier, the site is considered quite dangerous due to the possible descent of avalanches from Chapaev peak. In this connection, the departure from the camp is carried out no later than 4 in the morning. In the course of the ascent, the route crosses ice cracks, which excludes walking alone. Lifting in roped party with simultaneous and variable belay.
Overnight in a high altitude (alpine) tent or in a cave.

Day 8. Storming the summit, descent to the Col (5800m.)
 The hike 10+6 h. +/- 1200 m.

Early in the morning, (or at night), attempt to storm the Khan-Tengri peak with oxygen equipment. The ascent passes along the western ridge to the crest of the summit, along rocks of 3rd-4th grade of complexity. The route is equipped with fixed ropes. After the storm we take a couple of photos for memory and start the descent.
On the descent caution is needed, as it is only half the task to ascend to the top.
Descent to the Col, rest.
Overnight in a high altitude (alpine) tent or in a cave.

Day 9. Descent to BC.
The hike 5-6 h. - 1800 m.

Descent from the Col to the Base Camp is carried out on the Semenovskogo glacier, the site must be traversed as quickly as possible due to the danger of avalanches. Upon arrival in the Base Camp, you can contact the administrator, he will organize for you a visit to the bath.
Accommodation and meals in the camp.

Day 10. Reserve day.    
Reserve day in case of bad weather.

Day 11. Helicopter flight from Southern Inylchek Base Camp to the Karkara Base Camp. Transfer to Bishkek.
Flight 45 min. Transfer 8 h. - 3200 m.

After breakfast, the morning helicopter flight to Karkara.
You will be given lunch boxes and then a transfer to Bishkek will be organized. The manager will contact you and arrange your transfer to the airport in accordance with your tickets.
Hotel accommodation.

Day 12. Departure to home .
Transfer 40 km, 1h.

Transfer to the airport, flight home.

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