Ak-Sai Travel
Travel Discover Help - help the orphanages of Kyrgyzstan







Main     Contacts     Site map  
Русский   English   Deutsche   Spanish   French  Iran

Route description


The safest route leads from the Walter Glacier bivouac (4500 m) to and across the Big Pamir Plateau (at about 6000 m, 3 km wide by 12 km long). The climb of Peak Dunshabe (6950 m) follows and the main summit is reached by a long and steep ice slope.
Hike up the Walter Glacier. Traverse through northern slope (4 - 5 hrs).
To the Camp (5300 m). Hiking up by the right side of the moraine of the Walter Glacier. Crossing the glacier by the ice plateau under the walls of Pamir Big Plateau. It is necessary to cross it as early as possible and at maximum speed. Further the route follows by rock section to the crest (about 6-7 hours).
Camp (5300 m) - Camp (5800 m). Northern ridge (4-5 hrs). This part of the route is technically not difficult, wide snow crest with parts of 35-40 degrees steepness. The camp is located in mould.
Camp (5800 m) - Camp (6100 m). Pamir big Plateau (4-5 hrs). Early start and ascent to the two-headed summit. Climbing in roped-party. Traverse to the left to the top and then descent to Pamir Big Plateau.
Camp (6900 m) - northern snow/ice slope of Mt. Peak Dushanbe (7-8 hrs). Early start. Climbing in roped-party. An ascent is technically easy. After ascent to Mt. Peak Dushanbe (7000 m.) descent to the camp at 6900m.
Camp (6900 m) - summit - back to camp (6900 m) (8-9 hrs). Early start. The route climbs up the steep snow slope to the rocks. Above this, there is an exposed part leads to the summit.

The safest way leads up from the Korzhenevski Glacier; mostly easy rock scrambling low down with extended snow and ice above.To the Camp (5100 m.) Hiking up along small river and crossing the Moskvin glacier lead to the first bivouac site.
Camp (5100 m.) Camp (5300 m.) The route goes along rather steep glacier, which comes down from the south slope of the mountain. Camp 5300m. is located at morene. In the case of good weather youll see all further way to the summit from this camp.
Camp (5300 m.) Camp (6100 m.) Above this, the route continues up the ice/snow slope and then a long traverse using crampons and ice axes toward the south ridge.
Camp (6100 m.) Camp (6400 m.) Here climbers meet the key of this route - the vertical rock step of about 50 m. Then long and technically easy way up along the snow crest.
Camp (6400 m.) summit The route follows the snow crest towards the top. The joy of thousand summits (especially, Communism Peak) in the view from here is great!

 

 


Ak-Sai Travel

2010-2018 Ak-Sai Travel
All rights reserved
Activity and Thematic Tours Mountaineering Destinations Silk Road Tours Ak-Sai Travel Tour operator in Central Asia
@Mail.ru