1 Group (Korzhenevskaya Peak) – 13 July – 4 August

Basic program:

Day 1 Arrival in Dushanbe. Overnight at the hotel.
Day 2 Transfer to Jirgital (7 hours). Overnight at the guest house or in the tent.
Day 3 Flight to Moskvina glade, accommodation at the Base Camp (4360m).
Day 4 Preparation day, acclimatization on Moskvina Glade.
Day 5 Preparation day.

Climbing the peak of Korzhenevskaya (7105m)
Day 6 Acclimatization hike to Vorobyov peak (5691m). Overnight at an altitude of 5300m. Overnight.
Day 7 Descent to the BC.
Day 8 Rest day.
Day 9 Ascent to the camp on 5300m. Overnight.
Day 10 Ascent to the camp on 6400m. Overnight.
Day 11 Ascent to the peak of Korzhenevskaya (7105m), descent to the camp on 6400m. Overnight.
Day 12 Descent to the BC.
Day 13 Rest day.

Climbing the peak of Somoni (Communism, 7495m)
Day 14 Preparation day.
Day 15 Ascent to the camp on 5100m-5300m. Overnight.
Day 16 Ascent camp on 5900m. Overnight.
Day 17 Ascent to the camp on 6100m. Overnight.
Day 18 Ascent to the camp on 6900m.
Day 19 Ascent to the peak of Communism (7495m).  Overnight at the camp on 6900m.
Day 20 Descent to the camp on 5100m-5300m. Overnight.
Day 21 Descent to the BC.
Day 22-33 Reserve days in case of bad weather.
Day 34 Helicopter flight to Jirgital. Transfer to Dushanbe.
Day 35 Transfer to the airport.

Accommodation and dinner in Ala Archa hotel.

Day 2 Ala Archa – Rutsek hut
After breakfast hiking to Rutsek hut.

Accommodation and dinner in the hut

Day 3 Rutsek hut
Ice climbing lessons and preparation for ascension
Overnight and meals in the hut.

Day 4 Rutsek hut – Uchitel peak – Rutsek hut
Today you will make an ascension to Uchitel peak and then decent to the Rutsek hut. Сегодня Overnight and meals in the hut.

Day 5 Rutsek hut – Korona hut
Hiking from Rutsek to Korona hut.
Preparation for Korona peak ascension.
Overnight and meals in Korona hut.

Day 6 Korona hut – Korona peak – Rutsek hut
Today you will make the ascension to Korona peak. After decent – hiking to the Rutsek hut.
Overnight and meals in the hut.

Day 7 Rutsek hut – Ala Archa – Bishkek
After breakfast – hiking to Ala Archa and transfer to Bishkek.

Day 2. Drive Bishkek – Karkara ( 460 km ), accommodation at the Camp.

Day 3. Fly by helicopter to BC “South Inylchek”/ “North Inylchek” (4000m).

Day 4. Acclimatization and preparation for ascent.

Day 5. Acclimatization and preparation for ascent.

Day 6. Camp № 1 .

Day 7. Camp № 2 .

Day 8. Camp № 3 .

Day 9. Descend to BC

Day 10. Day of rest and preparation.

Day 11. Day of rest and preparation.

Day 12. Camp № 1.

Day 13. Camp № 3.

Day 14. Ascent of the summit (7010 m.) and descent to the camp № 3.

Day 15. Descent to the base camp.

Day 16. Additional day in case of bad weather.

Day 17. Additional day in case of bad weather.

Day 18. Additional day in case of bad weather.

Day 19. Fly by helicopter to BC “Karkara” and drive to Bishkek. Accommodation at hotel.

Day 20. Day in Bishkek.

Day 21. Transfer to the airport. Departure.

Distance/time 40 km, 1 hour

After receiving baggage and passing customs control upon arrival at the Manas International Airport, you will be met by a representative of Ak-Sai Travel, he will give you all the necessary documents and permits and we will organize a city tour for you. After you will be taken to a comfortable 4 * hotel located in the center of our capital.

Overnight and breakfast at the hotel.

Day 2. Flight to Osh. Transfer Osh – BC “Achik-Tash” (3600 m).

Flight 45 min, Distance/time 320 km, 6-8 hrs

After an early breakfast, the driver will pick you up and take to the morning flight Bishkek-Osh. In Osh, you will be met by our representative and he will take you on a short tour of the historic city of Osh. Further, by individual transport you will be taken to the Achik-Tash Base Camp. In the camp you will be met by the head or the administrator of the camp, who will accommodate you in your tent. You will meet with your guide, with whom you will coordinate all your questions about climbing and the operation of oxygen equipment.

Accommodation in tents. Lunch on the way in a local family. Dinner at the camp.

Day 3. Acclimatization climb to the ridge of Petrovsky peak.

Distance/time 10 km, 6 hrs, +600/800 m

After breakfast at the Base Camp, we will go with a guide to the ridge of Petrovsky peak for acclimatization to a height of 4000 m. From the ridge opens a breathtaking view of the Alai Valley and the Achik-Tash tract. Return to Base Camp for dinner. Rest, preparation for the trek to Camp 1.

Accommodation and full board meals in BC

Day 4. Trekking to Camp 1 (4400 m).

Distance/time 12 km, 6-8 hrs, +800 m

After breakfast at the Base Camp, departure with a guide to Camp 1. The luggage can be transported on a horseback (for an additional fee). From BC to «Lukovaya Polyana» – 1 hour way on foot, but can be reached by transport. The trek will take about 6 hours, you go along a good path through Puteshestvennikov Pass and along the slopes of the spur to the right of the Lenin glacier to Camp 1. Camp 1 is located on a moraine, before reaching it, you must cross the river. In Camp 1 you will be met by the administrator who will accommodate you in your tent. In the evening you will have time to familiarize yourself with the work and use of oxygen equipment and instructions on further climbing tactics.

Accommodation and full board meals in C1

Day 5. Ascent the top of Yukhin Peak 5100 m.

Distance/time 5 km, 2-3 hrs, +700 m

Acclimatization hike to the top of Yukhin peak (5100m), where you will stay in a high-altitude tent for the night. The route to Yukhin Peak passes through Domashny Peak, the route is not difficult and runs along a talus slope. On the top, there are flat areas for tents. The ascent is not technical and you don’t need special equipment.

Overnight in the set up tent on the top. Self-cooking.

Day 6. Descent to Camp 1 (4400m).

Distance/time 5 km, 1.5 hrs, – 700 m.

After acclimatization, you descent to Camp 1. The trek will take approximately 1.5 hours, thanks to the same looseness, along which you can quickly descend. Upon arrival at Camp 1, you can relax and start preparing for the next day.

Accommodation and full board meals in C1

Day 7. Ascent to Camp 2 (5300m).

Distance/time 5 km, 6-7 hrs + 900 m.

Departure to Camp 2. The route passes through a section that is considered quite dangerous due to possible avalanches from the northern slope of Lenin Peak, as well as ice cracks crossing the slope and a snow pan called “Skovorodka”. In this connection, the departure from the Camp 1 is no later than 4 AM. Upon arrival at the camp, accommodation in a high-altitude tent and rest. There will be already oxygen in the Camp 2, which you will use when you will go to the top.

Overnight in the installed high-altitude tent. Self-cooking.

Day 8. Ascent to Razdelnaya Peak (6100m).

Distance/time 3 km, 5-7 hrs +800 m.

In the morning, we start to go to Razdelnaya Peak with oxygen equipment. The route passes along a couloir with a steepness of 30 ° and a length of 500 meters. Further along the snow ridge to an altitude of 5700 meters. From here begins a steep ascent to Razdelnaya Peak, a drop of about 400 meters along the snow slope. Accommodation in an already set up tent and get ready for tomorrow’s summit assault.

Overnight in the installed high-altitude tent. Self-cooking.

Day 9. Ascent to the top of Lenin peak 7134 m. And descent to the Camp 2 (5300 m).

Distance/time 11 km, 14-16 hrs, +1000 m. / – 1800 m.

Leaving Camp 3 at 4 AM using oxygen equipment. Today you will have a rather long hike to the top. Ascent along a steep talus slope up to 6400 m, then the slope flattens in the direction of a steep snowy ridge. Railing ropes are usually attached to the ridge. The length is about 80-100 meters. Further along a wide snow slope towards the summit. In front of the top, there is a steep talus slope with further flattening and after you will reach the highest point. On the descent, it is necessary to behave as carefully as possible, since ascending to the top is only half the work. The descent is carried out along the route of the ascent to Camp 2.

Overnight in the installed high-altitude tent. Self-cooking.

Day 10. Descent to BC Achik-Tash (3600m).

Distance/time 17 km, 10-12 hrs, -1700 m.

After breakfast at Camp 2, accompanied by a guide, you begin your descent to the Base Camp. The trek to Camp 1 will take about 5 hours, where you can have lunch at your request and continue down to the BC. In the Base Camp you can relax after the ascent, use the services of our bath and our bar.

Accommodation and full board meals in BC

Day 11. Transfer to Osh. Flight to Bishkek.

Distance/time 320 km, 6-8 hrs. Flight 45 min.

After breakfast, for you will be organized an individual transfer to Osh. You will be taken to the airport for the evening flight Osh – Bishkek.

Lunch on the road.

Hotel accommodation.

Day 12. Departure home.

Distance/time 40 km, 1 hour.

Transfer to the airport, flight home.

* The OSH-OSH program starts from the 2nd day (the duration of the program is 11 days).

Day 2. Drive Bishkek – Karkara ( 460 km ), accommodation at the Camp.

Day 3. Fly by helicopter to BC “North Inylchek” (4000m).

Day 4. Acclimatization and preparation for ascent.

Day 5. Acclimatization and preparation for ascent.

Day 6. Camp № 1 . 4200m.

Day 7. Camp № 2 . 5300m.

Day 8. Radial hike to Chapaev Peak.

Day 9. Descend to BC

Day 10. Day of rest and preparation.

Day 11. Day of rest and preparation.

Day 12. Camp № 1.

Day 13. Camp № 3.

Day 14. Ascent of the summit (7010 m.) and descent to the camp № 3.

Day 15. Descent to the base camp.

Day 16. Additional day in case of bad weather.

Day 17. Additional day in case of bad weather.

Day 18. Additional day in case of bad weather.

Day 19. Fly by helicopter to BC “Karkara” and drive to Bishkek. Accommodation at hotel.

Day 20. Day in Bishkek.

Day 21. Transfer to the airport. Departure.

Day 2. Lecture: Transport the victim complex terrain forces a small group.

Day 3. Ascension Ratseka Peak (3900m). D

Day 4. Lecture: Interaction ligaments. Salvation from cracks.

Day 5. Ascension to the Korona Peak (4810 m.) D

Day 6. Ascension to the Ratseka Peak(3900m). D

Day 7. Trek down to alpincamp, transfer to Bishkek.

Day 2. Rock climbing: Interaction ligaments on the rocky relief. The use of double rope.

Day 3. Ascension (PD).

Day 4. Lecture: Moving of injured person on the difficult relief.

Day 5. Ascension (AD-)

Day 6. Ascension (Pd+)

Day 7. Trek down to alpincamp, transfer to Bishkek.

Day 2. 4 June Drive to the Torugart Pass, crossing Kyrgyzstan-China border; meeting your guide from China. Transfer tp Kashgar, 3 hours; hotel accommodation.

Day 3. 5 June Day in Kashgar

Day 4. 6 June Transfer Kashgar/Idara by bus, 210 km. Overnight in Camp.

Day 5. 7 June Trekking to BC from Idara.  Overnight in Camp.

Day 6-20. 8-22 June  Climbing Activity.

Day 21. 23 June Trekking to Idara from BC and transfer to Kashgar by bus. Overnight in 3*** Hotel in Kashgar.

Day 22. 24 June Kashgar/Torugart Pass by bus, crossing Chinese-Kyrgyz border. Drive to Naryn, accommodation in hotel .

Day 23. 25 June Transfer Naryn – Bishkek. Accommodation in a 3*** Hotel in Bishkek.

Day 24. 26 June Transport to airport, flight home.

Program of expedition with guaranteed dates.

Day 1. Arrival in Almaty. Transfer to the hotel.

Day 2. Departure from Almaty to the border crossing checkpoint “Bayankol” (2234m) – 380km. Crossing the frontier. Drive to the gold mine of Zharkulak (2500m).

Day 3. Foot passage to Sary-Goynou river to our base camp location (3100m) – 12km.

Day 4. Expedition opening, acclimatization procedures

Day 5. Acclimatization ascent to Camp 1 (4300m). Setting up the camp. Overnight in tents.

Day 6. Descent to the base camp (3100m).

Day 7. Pre-acclimatization ascent to Camp 2 (5300m). Setting up the camp. Overnight in tents.

Day 8. Descent to the base camp (3100m).

Days 9-10. Rest days. Final preparations before the ascent to the summit.
Days 11-13. Start of the ascent to the Marble Wall peak. Overnight stays on 4300m, 5300m, 6000m.

Day 14. Ascent to the Marble Wall peak summit (6400m). Return to the summit camp on 6000m. Possible return to the Camp 2 (5300m), depending on the team’s general physical state in the second half of the day.

Day 15. Descent to the base camp.

Day 16. Spare day.

Day 17. Closing off the expedition. Departure from the mountain area.

Day 18. Transfer to Almaty. Overnight accommodation in hotel.

Day 19. Departure of the expedition members.

Warning!

If you want to apply for this expedition you have to make a prepayment before 1 july 2024. This is essential since applications for permits should be sent two months before the expedition starts. We shall not accept the later requests.

Day 1 Arrival in Dushanbe. Overnight at the hotel.
Day 2 Transfer to Jirgital (7 hours). Overnight at the guest house or in the tent.
Day 3 Flight to Moskvina glade, accommodation at the Base Camp (4360m).
Day 4 Preparation day, acclimatization on Moskvina Glade.
Day 5 Preparation day.

Climbing the peak of Korzhenevskaya (7105m)
Day 6 Acclimatization hike to Vorobyov peak (5691m). Overnight at an altitude of 5300m. Overnight.
Day 7 Descent to the BC.
Day 8 Rest day.
Day 9 Ascent to the camp on 5300m. Overnight.
Day 10 Ascent to the camp on 6400m. Overnight.
Day 11 Ascent to the peak of Korzhenevskaya (7105m), descent to the camp on 6400m. Overnight.
Day 12 Descent to the BC.
Day 13 Rest day.

Climbing the peak of Somoni (Communism, 7495m)
Day 14 Preparation day.
Day 15 Ascent to the camp on 5100m-5300m. Overnight.
Day 16 Ascent camp on 5900m. Overnight.
Day 17 Ascent to the camp on 6100m. Overnight.
Day 18 Ascent to the camp on 6900m.
Day 19 Ascent to the peak of Communism (7495m).  Overnight at the camp on 6900m.
Day 20 Descent to the camp on 5100m-5300m. Overnight.
Day 21 Descent to the BC.
Day 22-27 Reserve days in case of bad weather.
Day 28 Helicopter flight to Jirgital. Transfer to Dushanbe.
Day 29 Transfer to the airport.