Accommodation and dinner in Ala Archa hotel.
Day 2 Ala Archa – Rutsek hut
After breakfast hiking to Rutsek hut.
Accommodation and dinner in the hut
Day 3 Rutsek hut
Ice climbing lessons and preparation for ascension
Overnight and meals in the hut.
Day 4 Rutsek hut – Uchitel peak – Rutsek hut
Today you will make an ascension to Uchitel peak and then decent to the Rutsek hut. Сегодня Overnight and meals in the hut.
Day 5 Rutsek hut – Korona hut
Hiking from Rutsek to Korona hut.
Preparation for Korona peak ascension.
Overnight and meals in Korona hut.
Day 6 Korona hut – Korona peak – Rutsek hut
Today you will make the ascension to Korona peak. After decent – hiking to the Rutsek hut.
Overnight and meals in the hut.
Day 7 Rutsek hut – Ala Archa – Bishkek
After breakfast – hiking to Ala Archa and transfer to Bishkek.
Distance/time 40 km, 1 hour
After receiving baggage and passing customs control upon arrival at the Manas International Airport, you will be met by a representative of Ak-Sai Travel, he will give you all the necessary documents and permits and we will organize a city tour for you. After you will be taken to a comfortable 4 * hotel located in the center of our capital.
Overnight and breakfast at the hotel.
Flight 45 min, Distance/time 320 km, 6-8 hrs
After an early breakfast, the driver will pick you up and take to the morning flight Bishkek-Osh. In Osh, you will be met by our representative and he will take you on a short tour of the historic city of Osh. Further, by individual transport you will be taken to the Achik-Tash Base Camp. In the camp you will be met by the head or the administrator of the camp, who will accommodate you in your tent. You will meet with your guide, with whom you will coordinate all your questions about climbing and the operation of oxygen equipment.
Accommodation in tents. Lunch on the way in a local family. Dinner at the camp.
Distance/time 10 km, 6 hrs, +600/800 m
After breakfast at the Base Camp, we will go with a guide to the ridge of Petrovsky peak for acclimatization to a height of 4000 m. From the ridge opens a breathtaking view of the Alai Valley and the Achik-Tash tract. Return to Base Camp for dinner. Rest, preparation for the trek to Camp 1.
Accommodation and full board meals in BC
Distance/time 12 km, 6-8 hrs, +800 m
After breakfast at the Base Camp, departure with a guide to Camp 1. The luggage can be transported on a horseback (for an additional fee). From BC to «Lukovaya Polyana» – 1 hour way on foot, but can be reached by transport. The trek will take about 6 hours, you go along a good path through Puteshestvennikov Pass and along the slopes of the spur to the right of the Lenin glacier to Camp 1. Camp 1 is located on a moraine, before reaching it, you must cross the river. In Camp 1 you will be met by the administrator who will accommodate you in your tent. In the evening you will have time to familiarize yourself with the work and use of oxygen equipment and instructions on further climbing tactics.
Accommodation and full board meals in C1
Distance/time 5 km, 2-3 hrs, +700 m
Acclimatization hike to the top of Yukhin peak (5100m), where you will stay in a high-altitude tent for the night. The route to Yukhin Peak passes through Domashny Peak, the route is not difficult and runs along a talus slope. On the top, there are flat areas for tents. The ascent is not technical and you don’t need special equipment.
Overnight in the set up tent on the top. Self-cooking.
Distance/time 5 km, 1.5 hrs, – 700 m.
After acclimatization, you descent to Camp 1. The trek will take approximately 1.5 hours, thanks to the same looseness, along which you can quickly descend. Upon arrival at Camp 1, you can relax and start preparing for the next day.
Accommodation and full board meals in C1
Distance/time 5 km, 6-7 hrs + 900 m.
Departure to Camp 2. The route passes through a section that is considered quite dangerous due to possible avalanches from the northern slope of Lenin Peak, as well as ice cracks crossing the slope and a snow pan called “Skovorodka”. In this connection, the departure from the Camp 1 is no later than 4 AM. Upon arrival at the camp, accommodation in a high-altitude tent and rest. There will be already oxygen in the Camp 2, which you will use when you will go to the top.
Overnight in the installed high-altitude tent. Self-cooking.
Distance/time 3 km, 5-7 hrs +800 m.
In the morning, we start to go to Razdelnaya Peak with oxygen equipment. The route passes along a couloir with a steepness of 30 ° and a length of 500 meters. Further along the snow ridge to an altitude of 5700 meters. From here begins a steep ascent to Razdelnaya Peak, a drop of about 400 meters along the snow slope. Accommodation in an already set up tent and get ready for tomorrow’s summit assault.
Overnight in the installed high-altitude tent. Self-cooking.
Distance/time 11 km, 14-16 hrs, +1000 m. / – 1800 m.
Leaving Camp 3 at 4 AM using oxygen equipment. Today you will have a rather long hike to the top. Ascent along a steep talus slope up to 6400 m, then the slope flattens in the direction of a steep snowy ridge. Railing ropes are usually attached to the ridge. The length is about 80-100 meters. Further along a wide snow slope towards the summit. In front of the top, there is a steep talus slope with further flattening and after you will reach the highest point. On the descent, it is necessary to behave as carefully as possible, since ascending to the top is only half the work. The descent is carried out along the route of the ascent to Camp 2.
Overnight in the installed high-altitude tent. Self-cooking.
Distance/time 17 km, 10-12 hrs, -1700 m.
After breakfast at Camp 2, accompanied by a guide, you begin your descent to the Base Camp. The trek to Camp 1 will take about 5 hours, where you can have lunch at your request and continue down to the BC. In the Base Camp you can relax after the ascent, use the services of our bath and our bar.
Accommodation and full board meals in BC
Distance/time 320 km, 6-8 hrs. Flight 45 min.
After breakfast, for you will be organized an individual transfer to Osh. You will be taken to the airport for the evening flight Osh – Bishkek.
Lunch on the road.
Hotel accommodation.
Distance/time 40 km, 1 hour.
Transfer to the airport, flight home.
* The OSH-OSH program starts from the 2nd day (the duration of the program is 11 days).
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