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More about mount Lenin

One of the highest peaks on the Pamirs is Peak Lenin (7134 m). It is located in the central part of the Zaalai mountain range and belongs administratively to Chong Alai district of Kyrgyz Republic. Peak Lenin is as a huge mountain range, which consists of snow and ice, stretching from Krylenko (5829 m) pass in the east to Razdelnaya (6148 m) pass in the west. On the southern and northern slopes of Lenin Peak there are a number of glaciers. The biggest glaciers are: Saukdara (20,6 km) and Lenin ( 13,5 km). All the glaciers of the northern slope of mount Lenin supply river basin Kizilsuu the main river of the Alai valley. The snow slides and avalanche are frequent phenomena on the slopes of mount Lenin. The snow-lines on the southern slopes pass at the height of 4800-5400 m, on the northern slopes - 4200-4500 m.

The climate of the Peak Lenin area is sharply continental. The summer is cold and short. Daily fluctuation in temperature is very high, even in the hottest season of the year it may vary from +59C in the daytime to -30C at night. The predominant direction of the wind is mainly south-western, at high altitudes wind with snow is quite often. Sometimes there can be thick mist which reduces visibility and complicates visual communication.

Fifteen routes have been formed in the course of history of climbing to mount Lenin. They chiefly differ in the ways of climbing to the main ridge. The most popular route among the mountaineers is from Lenin glacier across Razdelnaya Peak (6148 m). The temporary camps are usually organized: 1 at the moraine of the glacier at the altitude of 4400 m, 2 5300 m, 3 6100 m, 4 6400 m. As a rule, climbing takes 15-20 days, including acclimatization and the process of climbing itself. August is the most suitable period of time for mountaineering. On the one hand, Peak Lenin is the most accessible 7000 meter mountain. The automobile road comes nearly to the bottom of the mount. Complicated technical methods are not required if to choose the standard route (across Razdelnaya Peak). But, on the other hand, insufficiency of the air, low temperature, scarce physical training did not allow a lot of mountaineers to reach the top of mount Lenin. And memorial placards on the small rock at the edelweiss meadow remind of the tragedies that happened on the slopes of this mountain.

The mountain-climbers should take into account that at the height of more than 6500 m there occur partial loss of efficiency due to insufficiency of oxygen and increasing possibility of chilblain with altitude. The climbers should be ready to organize a comfortable and safe camp in any situation, including a snow cave; they should preserve strength. Before climbing it is necessary to get acquainted with the weather forecast in the region. The success of mountaineering depends on prior acclimatization and exploring climbs. The best time for mountaineering is July and August.

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