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Pobeda Peak and Khan Tengri


Peak Pobeda is the highest summit of the Tian-Shan mountain range with the height of 7439 meters. From both Pobeda Peak and Khan-Tengri Peak Yuzhny Inylchek glacier starts, which is considered one of the longest glaciers on the planet (its length exceeds 60 km). Pobeda Peak is the northernmost 7000 meter peak on the Earth.

The northern steep slopes of Pobeda Peak are covered with great amounts of ice and snow, and form a giant wall 4 km long and above 7,000 m high. Strong winds, raising snowstorms even in sunshine, challenge mountaineers, and turn the climbing into an extreme adventure full of hardships. It is a very dangerous and exhausting summit to climb. The ascent to Pobeda Peak is said to be like the conquest of Everest from the northern side by difficulty. The most complicated routes pass in the centre of the peaks northern wall and along its eastern spurs. The safest ways pass along the western and northwestern parts of Pobeda Peak. The summit was first reached by the group of Soviet alpinists in 1943, and since that time it is known as Peak Pobeda, meaning "victory peak". 

Khan-Tengri is one of the highest peaks in the Tien-Shan, a massive summit located in the eastern part of the Tengri-Tag range. The peak is 7010 meters high. It lies in the Issyk Kul oblast near the border with Kazakhstan. Khan Tengri (the name is translated variously as Prince of Spirits or Ruler of the Sky) is the second high mountain in Central Tien Shan after Pobeda Peak (7439 m). In the region of Khan-Tengri and Pobeda Peak there are most sizeable glaciers on the Tien-Shan with the avarage square of 2500 km, including Inylchek glacier.

Khan-Tengri has a pointed, pyramid form, built with marble. Its perfect pyramid summit of fluted and marble ridges burns in the sunset with the colours of hot coal, thats why the summit got the nickname Kan Too or "blood mountain". The peak with its fascinating pink and grey marble faces has attracted people since ancient times. First it was climbed in 1931 by the Russian Expedition of Mikhail Pogrebetski after thorough and long study in previous years.

Climbing tours to Peak Pobeda,Khan Tengri and Lenin Peak are mainly organized in summer when weather conditions are favourable for climbing while winter conquest of one of these tops is considered extra class ascension.


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