Report 21. \u00a0July 10<\/strong><\/p>\n\u041c\u044b \u0441\u043d\u043e\u0432\u0430 \u043d\u0430 \u0441\u0432\u044f\u0437\u0438 \u0438 \u0441\u0435\u0439\u0447\u0430\u0441 \u0434\u043b\u044f \u0432\u0430\u0441 \u043a\u0440\u0443\u0442\u044e\u0449\u0438\u0435 \u043f\u043e\u0433\u043e\u0434\u043d\u044b\u0435 \u043d\u043e\u0432\u043e\u0441\u0442\u0438!<\/p>\n
We are in touch again to share cool weather news with you!<\/p>\n
Last night a Storm came to visit us! And if afternoon it was only a little naughty, but in the evening and especially at night it played out pretty hard. But let\u2019s get everything in its order.<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n
The strongest downpours visited the Achik-Tash base camp and the entire area was literally flooded with water. But the correct location of the tents, as well as coordinated work of our team ensured us a success in keeping the situation under control. There is still warm and comfortable in the tents where our guests live, the dining tent is in order as usual and the food is as tasty as ever.
\nStarting from the Travelers’ Pass, the path from the base to the first camp was covered with a small snowball, which melted by lunchtime, turning some parts of the path into mud medley. On half an hour’s walk to the first camp in snow fields, the depth of snow in some places reaches 1.2 meters.<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n
In first camp all the tents were shaken off from the snow twice a night but still by morning it fell about twenty centimeters.<\/p>\n
In second camp, it fell up to 30 cm of snow during the night. The trail to second camp above the \u201czigzag\u201d with cracks was covered by several small avalanches. Also, several avalanches moved to the “pan”. In the morning over the northern slope of Lenin Peak were counted more than twenty signs of avalanche.<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n
It is impossible to accurately estimate the thickness of the snow in the third high-altitude camp. In some places its thickness is up to 30\u201340 cm, and in some places the tents are covered by snow at half its height.<\/p>\n
Despite the sudden raging of the storm, the consequences of its stay in all our camps are eliminated and the functionality is restored. Our team continues to work on marking the route and fixing the railing from a height of 6100 to the top. Groups of climbers work according to their programs.<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n
Report 20. July 9<\/strong><\/p>\nNevertheless, we are all very well near Lenin Peak! Sometimes you get up before down, walk an hour on the glacier, put on the crampons and climb higher, about five thousands meters above sea level. Nothing\u2019s better than sitting on the slope and viewing the indescribable beauty around!<\/p>\n
Shining sun, standing mountains, floating clouds and people, going up and down.
\n<\/p>\n
How amazing it is in the second camp! There is heat in the daytime and snowstorms at nights. No wonder that this place is called a “frying pan”. The next morning you can walk to the third camp. This is not far away, just like a stone’s throw. Of course, there is not so hot, but the storms are stronger during the nights.<\/p>\n
The routes between all the camps are marked with our flag poles, the railings over the cracks and on steep sections are well fixed. There is where to take a walk. And as you get to our camps, the attendants will give you tea. As in the best hotels, guests are offered welcome drink upon arrival.<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n
The weather these days in high altitude camps is changeable. Before lunchtime it is clear with small clouds, and wind and snow afternoon. Under the sun snow is being actively melted in vast territories, a part of the water evaporates forming clouds, which daily lavishly give snow and rain in the valley.<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n
But all this does not scare you, right? After all, walks in the mountains and climbing are beautiful in any weather. And we will take care of quality service for you!<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n
Report<\/strong> 19. <\/strong>July<\/strong> 8<\/strong><\/p>\nThere are a lot of tourist photos on the Internet now with pictures of legs, climbing crampons or shoes sticking out of the tent in the direction of the landscape.<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n
For certain reasons, we do not take such pictures. Well right, why fill up the information space with the next hundred new and old shoes?<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n
Look at these landscapes from our first high-altitude camp. And if your sensitive soul lacks color and shades – come to us, rise to the first camp and enjoy sunrises and sunsets, as they say, without intermediaries in the form of a monitor. And what are the stars and the Milky Way! But let\u2019s leave it for the next time.<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n
Report 18. July 7<\/strong><\/p>\nAs Aleksandr Vasilyevich Suvorov once said: it is hard to learn, it is easy in battle!<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n
Snow-ice activities are an integral part of the climbing program. Regardless of the experience of our clients, we always conduct such training at a certain stage of the program. This allows you to see the skills of each participant, teach the necessary actions and coordinated work of the whole group, and much more.<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n
It so happened that this season, our favorite training glacier near first camp is still covered with a thick snow blanket and there is no one, even the smallest patch, where you can screw an ice drill or bite the crampons into.<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n
But, as they say, seek and you shall find! Now we have a spare place to train. There are vertical walls and gentle slopes, there is where to slip and chop off with an ice pick, to walk in bundles. A little dirty, you say? But effectively and our customers are happy!<\/p>\n
Report 17. July 6<\/strong><\/p>\nWell now a couple of words about our doctors.<\/p>\n
Doctor is a very necessary person here and a good high-altitude doctor is as good as gold indeed.<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n
Our high-altitude professional doctors arrived at the base camp with the very first team and immediately began to equip the infirmary, make up first-aid kits and participate in acclimatization ascents.<\/p>\n
From the very first days the climbers arrived to 1 camp, our high-altitude doctor has a lot of work. There always was a queue to measure pressure, to get a pill for a headache and also night rescue operations.<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n
Yesterday we have had an accident. A client from a neighboring company near 3 camp, at an altitude of 6100m had cerebral edema. The medical aid was provided but he was immobilized and a couple of people began to descend him to 2 camp. Our duty officers joined the rescue work, connected the victim to our reserve oxygen cylinder and accompanied him to the glacier at an altitude of 4500m. In the late evening four people from our team at 1 camp, including our doctor with a first-aid kit moved towards them. By common efforts, the victim was taken to the camp of company that organized the ascend.<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n
The climbers are not always ready for non-standard situations that happen in extreme conditions.<\/p>\n
For many years the life and health of numerous people were saved by virtue of the professional, well-coordinated work of our rescue team. We try to help everyone, not dividing our ascenders into our or other companies clients. Collaborate with professionals!<\/p>\n
Report 16. July 5\u00a0<\/strong><\/p>\nWell, now let’s go conquer the Yukhin peak!<\/p>\n
These days there is almost no snow left in the 1 camp and surrounding slopes. It is the best time for walks to the Yukhin peak (5100m) that begin after breakfast about nine o’clock and end closer to the lunchtime.<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n
But it is well known, that a lot of snow felt this year. The snow often thawed and froze and now looks like wet granules throughout its one and a half meter thickness with a thin crust on the surface. We couldn\u2019t make a snowman out of this snow, but falling down into it you can actually swim, because there is water under the snow.<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n
If you want to climb this peak, we recommend leaving the camp at four in the morning and returning back to nine. There is enough time for a leisurely ascent and it is really better to cross snow fields on the way to Domashniy Peak and from its summit to the foot of Yukhin Peak through frozen snow.<\/p>\n
Coming back yet by 10 o\u2019clock in the morning there are big chances to fall repeatedly into snow traps. The Yukhin slope itself is 90% melted, the snow is just under the summit and the southern side of the Domashniy peak is also earthy and rocky.<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n
The path from 1 camp (including the glacier on the way) to 2 and 3 camps \u00a0is still under a thick snow layer and the cracks on the slopes are still passable. Ropes in these places are fixed, but soon it will be necessary to fix the stairs.<\/p>\n
Report 15. July 4\u00a0<\/strong><\/p>\nThe snow is through the roof! This is the best way of describing the situation in 1 camp. Although it is quite\u00a0 sunny during the day, the snow actually is not going to melt and huge snowdrifts surround the tents from all sides. All that is missing here is Christmas tree and you have all to celebrate the New Year.<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n
After lunch it started to hail or snow, can\u2019t tell you exactly. In the distance, there is a rumble of thunder or avalanches. No way to make something out, because the sky is tightly covered with gray mist.<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n
The lounge area was excavated by common effort of our team. It is a beloved place to relax, from which you can admire the views of the glacier, the peaks of Lenin, Yukhin and others, sitting in a down jacket and sipping hot tea from a thermos.<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n
The camp has high-speed Wi-Fi, do not miss the opportunity to send beautiful photos to relatives and friends.<\/p>\n
By the way, tomorrow we will conduct another exploration on the peak of Yukhin and in the evening we will share with you fresh information.<\/p>\n
Report 14. July 3\u00a0<\/strong><\/p>\nA couple words about our doctors.<\/p>\n
Doctor is a very necessary person here and a good high-altitude doctor is as good as gold indeed.<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n
Our high-altitude professional doctors arrived at the base camp with the very first team and immediately began to equip the infirmary, make up first-aid kits and participate in acclimatization ascents<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n
With the arrival of the first climbers, a first-aid post will already be functioning in the 1 high-altitude camp. For any health question, be sure to consult our doctors.<\/p>\n
We wish you stay strong!<\/p>\n
Report 13. July 2<\/strong><\/p>\nKamurza and Shishiga<\/p>\n
You probably never heard these words, right? Well, we reveal some secrets for you, dear friends!<\/p>\n
Kamurza is the name of our friend, who is just a good man and a great driver.<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n
Shishiga (as people call it) or GAZ-66 (official name) is a military all-terrain vehicle manufactured by the USSR.<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n
Although both of them are not young, they do their work in a timely manner, carrying the climbers from the base camp to Lukovaya Polyana and back. And this, dear friends, is very important, because you should save your strength from the first days of your expedition to the top. Believe me, your strength will be useful to you.<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n
Do you have your own methods of saving the energy and the strength in the mountains?<\/p>\n
Report 12. July 1\u00a0<\/strong><\/p>\nIt\u2019s frosty and sunny, but still amazing day today!<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n
After yesterday’s showers, the wind dispersed the thunderclouds over the base camp and the night was starry and warm.<\/p>\n
This afternoon is warm and clear. In the high-altitude camps, the snow didn\u2019t melt due to the night frost. The thickness of the snow cover still remains fairly large, up to three meters in some places. It makes the work in camps, as well as movement along the route very difficult. For example, these days the journey from the second camp to the third for the experienced Nepalese Sherpas takes six hours. Under more favorable conditions, they run up in an hour and a half.<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n
But we setting up the tents. At the moment, 16 tents have already been set up in the second camp, six in the third and another twelve have already been fixed.<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n
This year we will try to provide maximum comfort for our guests.\u00a0 We are planning, as far as it is possible, to accommodate one person per tent in the high-altitude camp. Several groups of climbers are acclimatizing yet on the slopes of Lenin Peak.<\/p>\n
Report 11. June 30\u00a0<\/strong><\/p>\nNight salvage operations<\/p>\n
This day together with the thunderclouds, brought us another event.<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n
In the morning a group of climbers went to 1 camp. By evening, one of them was very indisposed and was immediately given a help from our doctor. But as the situation turned out to be critical the salvage operations and urgent descent began at ten o’clock in the evening. Several of our employees suffered the victim in the direction of the base camp.<\/p>\n
From the base camp six people and the doctor were moving forward. Having met on the trail, rescue teams set the patient on a horse and transported him down to Lukovaya Polyana. There, our driver on the all-terrain vehicle was waiting for everyone. The victim was taken to base camp.<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n
Now the state of the injured is satisfactory. We wish him to get well and gain strength as soon as possible!<\/p>\n
More than ten people, the all-terrain vehicle, horses and oxygen cylinders were involved in the evacuation of one person.<\/p>\n
Our company put the safety, life and health of people in the first place. Collaborate with professionals!<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n
Report 10. June 29\u00a0<\/strong><\/p>\nWeather conditions.<\/p>\n
This night was rainy but warm. And all day pouring rain.
\n<\/strong><\/p>\n<\/p>\n
On the route from the base camp to 1 camp is passable, albeit wet and mud. You can go in trekking shoes. Directly in front of the camp are dangerous snow bridges across the river. At night there was no freezing, the snow was wet and heavy from the very morning. Walking on Peak Domashniy and Peak Yukhin is not possible yet due to the large thickness of sleet. There was no one who wanted to break through the trail with depth to the waist.<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n
The same situation is on the way from the first to the second camp. Drama is added by snow that has not yet descended in places near the so called \u201cfrying pan\u201d. The mountains are now, so to speak, full of snow, which should either stick together or avalanche.<\/p>\n
Be careful when crossing the river. Water undermines the snow from the bottom, forming peaks. Now they are quite fragile and there are already cases of having bathes there.<\/p>\n
Report 9. June 28\u00a0<\/strong><\/p>\nReport 9. June 28 <\/strong><\/p>\nToday we have a lot of news for you, dear friends!<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n
The peak of Petrovsky was climbed to for the first time this season. Two climbers from Spain climbed the snow ridge to the top. We congratulate them!<\/p>\n
Horse detachments finally made their way through the snow to the high-altitude 1 camp. Cargo delivery is adjusted. Two groups of climbers from Spain and France went to the first camp for acclimatization. Our chefs also went up. In a few days the infrastructure in the first high-altitude camp will be fully established.<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n
Our small team has already fixed the railing and now is marking the route from camp 1 to camp 2. A few tents were set up in the second camp. Tomorrow several people are to go to Razdelnaya to set up the first tents of the third high-altitude camp! We wish the guys good luck and good weather!<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n
Today 11 people from Denmark, led by their tour leader Rasmus, who visited the summit of Everest in May this year, spent the first acclimatization day.<\/p>\n
The infrastructure of the base camp Achik-Tash is fully established and every day we receive more and more guests!<\/p>\n
Keep following our reports, it will be more interesting!<\/p>\n
Report 8. June 27\u00a0<\/strong><\/p>\nThe chief of the base camp.<\/p>\n
It is so arranged by the nature, that a man builds a house and a woman creates life and comfort.<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n
The combination of objects with each other, the harmony of materials and the correct use of colors, the order of actions of each employee and many other factors in general create a pleasant atmosphere both in the base and in the high-altitude camps. Creating such maximum comfortable conditions directly affects the preparation for climbing and the rest of our guests. The director of Aksai-Travel Elena Kalashnikova personally visited the Achik-Tash base camp in order to check the camp\u2019s readiness, address current tasks and strategic development in this direction both this year and in the future.<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n
Want to see the highest level of guest service in high altitude conditions? It is not necessary to fly to France or Switzerland. Rather, come to us, to Kyrgyzstan, to the basic climbing camp “Achik-Tash”. You will be pleasantly surprised.<\/p>\n
And do not forget your cameras, because your friends may just not believe that everything is so cool here!<\/p>\n
Report 7.\u00a0 June 26\u00a0<\/strong><\/p>\nTransporter. Carrier. Courier.<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n
He appears unexpectedly and deliver your cargo at the right time and place. Only few know how to find him. He works quietly and quickly, usually doesn\u2019t ask any questions. Your shipment is his delivery. His horse detachment runs between base camp and camp 1 and we highly recommend using his services to save your strength for climbing.<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n
This is M-A-M-A-S-H. That is how slowly and mysteriously his name is pronounced here.<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n
A humble and kind-hearted man who has no offshore and islands in the ocean, but owns Mamash-Peak mountain and residence at its foot.<\/p>\n
Do you have your own mountain? Or a mound? Well, at least a sand turtle made by a child on the beach?<\/p>\n
Report 6. June 25\u00a0<\/strong><\/p>\nSecrets of the Achik-Tash Valley …<\/p>\n
Do you like secrets, dear friends? Then sit back read carefully, we will open one of them for you.<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n
Among the great number of nameless glacial lakes in the Achik-Tash valley, there is one that bears the name. That is Mikhailovo lake, which has the purest turquoise water. There is a treasured stone, peeping out of the water. According to ancient beliefs, who stands on it with bare feet in the morning, that will smile all the morning. And who jumps naked from the magic stone into the water, that will be covered with a wave of happiness and joy all day long.<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n
Maybe because of bathing in the cherished lake every morning the head of the base camp, Mikhail Khomenyuk brings laughter and joy to people? If you notice his presence nearby, hold your breath, perhaps right now Mikhail is going to share another funny story or a joke with you.<\/p>\n
We wish you to start every morning with joy, dear friends!<\/p>\n
Report 5. June 24\u00a0<\/strong><\/p>\nWe have amazing news to share with, dear friends!<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n
Now you can enjoy a buffet that we organized in our base camp for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Fruits, vegetables, soups, fish, meat, sauces, jams, honey and much more\u2026 Everyone can choose what they like.<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n
The snow clearing and tent-setting works are in full swing in the first high-altitude camp.<\/p>\n
A group of climbers from France has already arrived at the base camp and tomorrow they will start working on acclimatization.<\/p>\n
Report 4. June 23\u00a0<\/strong><\/p>\nNews from camp 1<\/p>\n
Today our team of guides, in order to acclimatize, made a transfer of cargo to the camp at 4300 m and returned back.<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n
The condition of snow on the northern slope does not allow horses with cargo to pass. Local riders merrily waving their shovels while clearing the path. If in the coming days there will be warm and clear weather, approximately in 2-4 days the first horse detachment will be able to break through.<\/p>\n
The snow on the slopes is deep and heavy, many small but unpleasant avalanches are coming off.<\/p>\n
From the Travelers’ Pass to the camp 1 the trail is passable and it is possible to accelerate.<\/p>\n
Due to the amount of snow this year, work in camp 1 is proceeding slowly but surely and according to plan. In a few days we will be able to receive guests.<\/p>\n
If you are hot and dry at home, come to us sooner. We are sometimes cool and fun!<\/p>\n
Report 3. June 22<\/strong><\/p>\nCome urgently to our base camp to eat young wild onions!<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n
Today\u2019s night was snowy, and it\u2019s snowing all day. In the morning, another squad came out to set up camp 1.<\/p>\n
Sometimes you have to break new trails. But in some places the thickness of the snow is more than two meters and one cannot do without shovels.<\/p>\n
On the Travelers’ Pass, the amount of snow is moderate and it is possible by now to conduct acclimatization ascents.<\/p>\n
Aksai Travel is a team of professionals. We do everything to ensure the safety and comfort of our customers. And the first guests of this season have already arrived at Achik-Tash base camp. Congratulations to all!<\/p>\n
Report 2. June 21<\/strong><\/p>\nNews from Achik-Tash Valley<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n
This morning, our small team went to Camp 1 (4100 m). Snow on the trail is moderate, we got there in 5 hours. In Camp 1, the thickness of the snow reaches two meters. Camp setting works are started.<\/p>\n
In Base Camp we continue works of improving the infrastructure.<\/p>\n
Report 1. June 20<\/strong><\/p>\n60 people of our team are working in the Achik-Tash base camp, at an altitude of 3600 m. A huge canteen, a kitchen, and more than 40 tents for guests and staff have already been set up.<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n
It’s warm outside; the sun is shining all day. Everyone is in a cheerful and great mood and we wish you the same!<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n
<\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"
Sorry, this entry is only available in Russian.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":15844,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[85],"tags":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/ak-sai.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/15538"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/ak-sai.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/ak-sai.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/ak-sai.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/ak-sai.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=15538"}],"version-history":[{"count":27,"href":"https:\/\/ak-sai.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/15538\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":16618,"href":"https:\/\/ak-sai.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/15538\/revisions\/16618"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/ak-sai.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/15844"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/ak-sai.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=15538"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/ak-sai.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=15538"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/ak-sai.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=15538"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}