2 Groupo – 27 Julio – 27 Augusto

Día 1. Llegada a Dushanbé. Alojamiento en hotel.

Día 2. Vuelo en helicóptero hasta Campamento Base en el glaciar Moskvina.

Día 3-30. Aclimatación y ascenso.

Día 31. Vuelo en helicóptero hasta Dushanbé. Trasnoche en hotel.

Día 32. Salida de Dushanbé.

Day 1. Arrival to the city of Bishkek, accommodation at a local hotel.

After receiving baggage and passing customs control upon arrival at the Manas International Airport, you will be met by a representative of Ak-Sai Travel, after you will be taken to a hotel.

Day 2. Flight to Osh. Transfer Osh – BC «Achik-Tash» (3600 m).

After an early breakfast, the driver will pick you up and take you to the morning flight Bishkek-Osh. In Osh, you will be met by our representative, and then on our transport you will be delivered to the Achik-Tash Base Camp. In the camp you will be met by the head or administrator of the camp, who will accommodate you and provide all the necessary information.

Day 3. Acclimatization at the Base Camp, a walk to the waterfall.

After breakfast – acclimatization walk. Return to dinner. After lunch, rest, checking high-altitude equipment.

Day 4. Acclimatization climb to the ridge of Petrovsky peak.

After breakfast, acclimatization hike to the ridge of Petrovsky peak. Ascent until we reach snow line, to a height of 4000 m. From the ridge, a breathtaking view of the Alai Valley and the tract Achik-Tash opens. Return to Base Camp for dinner. Rest, preparation for the transition to Camp 1.

Day 5. Trekking to Camp 1 (4400 m).

After breakfast, exit to Camp 1. The luggage can be transported on a horseback (for an additional fee). From BC to «Lukovaya Polyana» – 1 hour way on foot, but can be reached by transport. Further, you go along a good path through Puteshestvennikov Pass and along the slopes of the spur to the right of the Lenin glacier to Camp 1, approximate time 4-5 hours. Camp 1 is located on a moraine. Before reaching it, you must cross the river.

Day 6. Climbing the peak of Yukhin 5100 m or Home Peak 4700 m.

After breakfast you will go for ascent Yuhin Peak or Home Peak, the ascent is not technical and you don’t need special equipment. Overnight in C1.

Day 7. Ice classes. Preparation for the ascent.

In the morning, ice classes. You must remember the rules of movement on the glacier, work on ligaments, provide self-rescue skills and rescue the injured from an ice crack. Climbing preparation. Preparation of the necessary equipment for climbing to Camp 2 (5300m).

Day 8. Ascent to Camp 2 (5300 m).

From C1 to C2 they leave one hour before dawn to avoid heat and wet snow. As you crossed the moraine and approached the foot of the northern slope, it is necessary to move in a ligament and put on crampons. Further, rise in the center of the steep northern slope, to the left of the icefall, there are many ice cracks on the way. The most dangerous and difficult places are hung with a railing. In the upper part of the ascent, the route goes to the right, to the vast ice plateau called «Skovorodka». Cross the plateau from left to right. On the surface moraine at the base of the northwest ridge, at an altitude of 5300 m, is С2. Average time is 7-9 hours. Overnight in tents in Camp 2. Self cooking.

Day 9. Ascent to Camp 3 (6100 m).

Start at 9 o`clock in the morning. Movement in crampons and ligaments. As overcame a steep takeoff, the route goes to a gentle northwest ridge. Further, left along the ridge to a steep take-off of the Razdelnaya peak. C3 is located on the spacious dome of the peak at an altitude of 6100 m. From C2 to C3 it will take 4-6 hours. Overnight at Camp 3, self-cooking.

Day 10. Descent to the Base Camp (3600 m).

Early in the morning, you start descent from Camp 3 to Camp 1. Movement in crampons and ligaments. Lunch at Camp 1. After lunch, you go down to the base camp. Dinner at the base camp.

Day 11. Rest day.

Rest at the Base Camp.

Day 12. Preparation for the ascent.

Rest at the Base Camp, climbing preparation.

Day 13. Trekking to Camp 1 (4400 m).

After the acclimatization, the ascent requires less effort and time.

Day 14. Ascent to Camp 2 (5300 m).

Departure at 4 a.m. Ascent along the northern slope of Lenin peak. Movement in crampons, in ligaments, overcoming glacial cracks. After the acclimatization, the transition requires less effort and time. Overnight in tents at Camp 2. Self cooking.

Day 15. Ascent to Camp 3 (6100 m).

Start at 9 o`clock in the morning. Immediately after the camp, a steep take-off on the ridge. Moving along a wide ridge and again abrupt take-off to the top of the peak Razdelnaya. Movement in crampons and ligaments. The average walking time is 4-6 hours. After the acclimatization, the transition requires less time and effort. Overnight at Camp 3, self-cooking. Preparing for the climb.

Day 16. Ascent to the top of Lenin peak 7134 m. And descent to the Camp 3 (6100 m).

Leaving Camp 3 before dawn. Movement in crampons. Go down from Camp 3 to the saddle and climb the steep take-off to the wide western ridge of Lenin Peak. Holding onto the left side of the ridge, move to the top. Having overcome a steep (45 degrees) icy take-off of 80 m in length, called a “knife”, and passing between the rocks, the route crosses the extensive gentle snow – the “plateau of skydivers” and goes out onto the gentle slope of rocky hills. There are no obvious directions, and in conditions of insufficient visibility it is easy to get lost. There is a small nust of Lenin of the top of the peak.

An important safety rule: if by 2 o`clock in the afternoon you have not reached the summit, you must immediately start descending to assault camp!

Day 17. Descent to Camp 1 (4400 m).

Early in the morning you start your descent from Camp 3 to Camp 1. Moving in crampons and in ligaments. Lunch at Camp 1. Rest.

Day 18. Descent to the Base Camp (3600 m).

Transfer to the Base Camp. The cargo can be sent by horse (extra charge). Solemn rewarding of the climbers in the Base Camp.

Day 19. Reserve day.

Reserve day in case of bad weather.

Day 20. Transfer BC «Achik-Tash» – Osh. Hotel accommodation.

After breakfast transfer to Osh city. There will be a lunchbox for lunch. Upon arrival, accommodation at the hotel.

Day 21. Flight to Bishkek. Accommodation at the hotel.

The driver transfer you to the airport for the flight Osh – Bishkek. In Bishkek, you will be met by a representative and taken to the hotel.

Day 22. Transfer to the airport. Departure home.

The driver will pick you up from the hotel at the required time and take you to the airport for the desired flight.

*Osh–Osh packages start at Day 2 and end on Day 21 (The total duration of these packages is 20 days)

Day 1. Arrival to the city of Bishkek, accommodation at a local hotel.

After receiving baggage and passing customs control upon arrival at the Manas International Airport, you will be met by a representative of Ak-Sai Travel, after you will be taken to a hotel.

Day 2. Flight to Osh. Transfer Osh – BC «Achik-Tash» (3600 m).

After an early breakfast, the driver will pick you up and take you to the morning flight Bishkek-Osh. In Osh, you will be met by our representative, and then on our transport you will be delivered to the Achik-Tash Base Camp. In the camp you will be met by the head or administrator of the camp, who will accommodate you and provide all the necessary information.

Day 3. Acclimatization at the Base Camp, a walk to the waterfall.

After breakfast – acclimatization walk. Return to dinner. After lunch, rest, checking high-altitude equipment.

Day 4. Acclimatization climb to the ridge of Petrovsky peak.

After breakfast, acclimatization hike to the ridge of Petrovsky peak. Ascent until we reach snow line, to a height of 4000 m. From the ridge, a breathtaking view of the Alai Valley and the tract Achik-Tash opens. Return to Base Camp for dinner. Rest, preparation for the transition to Camp 1.

Day 5. Trekking to Camp 1 (4400 m).

After breakfast, exit to Camp 1. The luggage can be transported on a horseback (for an additional fee). From BC to «Lukovaya Polyana» – 1 hour way on foot, but can be reached by transport. Further, you go along a good path through Puteshestvennikov Pass and along the slopes of the spur to the right of the Lenin glacier to Camp 1, approximate time 4-5 hours. Camp 1 is located on a moraine. Before reaching it, you must cross the river.

Day 6. Climbing the peak of Yukhin 5100 m or Home Peak 4700 m.

After breakfast you will go for ascent Yuhin Peak or Home Peak, the ascent is not technical and you don’t need special equipment. Overnight in C1.

Day 7. Reserve day. Preparation for the ascent.

Depending on your feeling and the weather. Rest. Climbing preparation. Preparation of the necessary equipment for climbing to Camp 2 (5300m).

Day 8. Ascent to Camp 2 (5300 m).

From C1 to C2 they leave one hour before dawn to avoid heat and wet snow. As you crossed the moraine and approached the foot of the northern slope, it is necessary to move in a ligament and put on crampons. Further, rise in the center of the steep northern slope, to the left of the icefall, there are many ice cracks on the way. The most dangerous and difficult places are hung with a railing. In the upper part of the ascent, the route goes to the right, to the vast ice plateau called «Skovorodka». Cross the plateau from left to right. On the surface moraine at the base of the northwest ridge, at an altitude of 5300 m, is С2. Average time is 7-9 hours. Overnight in tents in Camp 2. Self cooking.

Day 9. Ascent to Camp 3 (6100 m).

Start at 9 o`clock in the morning. Movement in crampons and ligaments. As overcame a steep takeoff, the route goes to a gentle northwest ridge. Further, left along the ridge to a steep take-off of the Razdelnaya peak. C3 is located on the spacious dome of the peak at an altitude of 6100 m. From C2 to C3 it will take 4-6 hours. Overnight at Camp 3, self-cooking.

Day 10. Descent to the Base Camp (3600 m).

Early in the morning, you start descent from Camp 3 to Camp 1. Movement in crampons and ligaments. Lunch at Camp 1. After lunch, you go down to the base camp. Dinner at the base camp.

Day 11. Rest day.

Rest at the Base Camp.

Day 12. Preparation for the ascent.

Rest at the Base Camp, climbing preparation.

Day 13. Trekking to Camp 1 (4400 m).

After the acclimatization, the ascent requires less effort and time.

Day 14. Ascent to Camp 2 (5300 m).

Departure at 4 a.m. Ascent along the northern slope of Lenin peak. Movement in crampons, in ligaments, overcoming glacial cracks. After the acclimatization, the transition requires less effort and time. Overnight in tents at Camp 2. Self cooking.

Day 15. Ascent to Camp 3 (6100 m).

Start at 9 o`clock in the morning. Immediately after the camp, a steep take-off on the ridge. Moving along a wide ridge and again abrupt take-off to the top of the peak Razdelnaya. Movement in crampons and ligaments. The average walking time is 4-6 hours. After the acclimatization, the transition requires less time and effort. Overnight at Camp 3, self-cooking. Preparing for the climb.

Day 16. Ascent to the top of Lenin peak 7134 m. And descent to the Camp 3 (6100 m).

Leaving Camp 3 before dawn. Movement in crampons. Go down from Camp 3 to the saddle and climb the steep take-off to the wide western ridge of Lenin Peak. Holding onto the left side of the ridge, move to the top. Having overcome a steep (45 degrees) icy take-off of 80 m in length, called a “knife”, and passing between the rocks, the route crosses the extensive gentle snow – the “plateau of skydivers” and goes out onto the gentle slope of rocky hills. There are no obvious directions, and in conditions of insufficient visibility it is easy to get lost. There is a small nust of Lenin of the top of the peak.

An important safety rule: if by 2 o`clock in the afternoon you have not reached the summit, you must immediately start descending to assault camp!

Day 17. Descent to Camp 1 (4400 m).

Early in the morning you start your descent from Camp 3 to Camp 1. Moving in crampons and in ligaments. Lunch at Camp 1. Rest.

Day 18. Descent to the Base Camp (3600 m).

Transfer to the Base Camp. The cargo can be sent by horse (extra charge). Solemn rewarding of the climbers in the Base Camp.

Day 19. Reserve day.

Reserve day in case of bad weather.

Day 20. Transfer BC «Achik-Tash» – Osh. Hotel accommodation.

After breakfast transfer to Osh city. There will be a lunchbox for lunch. Upon arrival, accommodation at the hotel.

Day 21. Flight to Bishkek. Accommodation at the hotel.

The driver transfer you to the airport for the flight Osh – Bishkek. In Bishkek, you will be met by a representative and taken to the hotel.

Day 22. Transfer to the airport. Departure home.

The driver will pick you up from the hotel at the required time and take you to the airport for the desired flight.

*Osh–Osh packages start at Day 2 and end on Day 21 (The total duration of these packages is 20 days)

Día 2. Traslado Bishkek – Karkará ( 460 km ), alojamiento en el Camapamento.

Día 3. Vuelo en helicóptero al CB (4 000 m).

Día 4. Aclimatación y preparativos para la ascensión.

Día 5. Campamento № 1 . 4200m.

Día 6. Campamento № 2 . 5500m.

Día 7. Campamento № 3 . 5900m.

Día 8. Descenso al CB

Día 9. Día de descanso.

Día 10. Día de descanso y preparación.

Día 11. Campamento № 1.

Día 12. Campamento № 2.

Día 13. Campamento № 3.

Día 14. Campamento № 4. 6400m.

Día 15. Ascención a la cima (7 010 m.) y descenso al campamento № 3.

Día 16. Descenso al campamento base.

Día 17. Día adicional en caso de mal tiempo.

Día 18. Día adicional en caso de mal tiempo.

Día 19. Vuelo eb helicóptero al CB “Karkará” y traslado a Bishkek. Alojamiento en hotel.

Día 20. Día en Bishkek.

Día 21. Traslado al aeropuerto. Salida.

Día 2. Traslado Bishkek – Karkará ( 460 km ), alojamiento en el Camapamento.

Día 3. Vuelo en helicóptero al CB “ Inylchek del Sur ” (4 000 m).

Día 4. Aclimatación y preparativos para la ascensión.

Día 5. Campamento № 1 . 4200m.

Día 6. Campamento № 2 . 5500m.

Día 7. Campamento № 3 . 5900m.

Día 8. Descenso al CB

Día 9. Día de descanso.

Día 10. Día de descanso y preparación.

Día 11. Campamento № 1.

Día 12. Campamento № 2.

Día 13. Campamento № 3.

Día 14. Campamento № 4. 6400m.

Día 15. Ascención a la cima (7 010 m.) y descenso al campamento № 3.

Día 16. Descenso al campamento base.

Día 17. Día adicional en caso de mal tiempo.

Día 18. Día adicional en caso de mal tiempo.

Día 19. Vuelo eb helicóptero al CB “Karkará” y traslado a Bishkek. Alojamiento en hotel.

Día 20. Día en Bishkek.

Día 21. Traslado al aeropuerto. Salida.

Día 2. Traslado Bishkek- Karkara (460 km), alojamiento en Campamento.

Día 3. Vuelo en helicóptero al CB“ Inylchek del Sur” (4 000 m).

Día 4.  Aclimatación y preparativos para el ascenso.

Día 5. Aclimatación y preparativos para el ascenso.

Día 6. Ascensión al campamento № 1. 4600m

Día 7. Ascensión al campamento № 2. 5300m

Día 8. Ascensión al campamento № 3. 5700m

Día 9. Ascensión al campamento № 4 6400 m

Día 10. Descenso al campamento № 1.4600 m

Día 11. Descenso al campamento base.

Día 12. Día de descanso.

Día 13. Ascensión al campamento № 1.

Día 14. Ascensión al campamento № 2.

Día 15. Ascensión al campamento № 3.

Día 16. Ascensión al campamento № 4.

Día 17. Ascensión al campamento № 5. 6900 m

Día 18. Ascensión al campamento № 6. 7100 m.

Día 19. Ascenso de la cima y descenso al campamento № 5

Día 20. Descenso al campamento № 3.

Día 21. Descenso al campamento № 1.

Día 22. Descenso al campamento base.

Día 23. Día adicional en caso de mal tiempo.

Día 24. Día adicional en caso de mal tiempo.

Día 25. Vuelo en helicóptero a Karkará y traslado a Bishkek. Alojamiento en hotel.

Día 26. Día libre en Bishkek. Alojamiento en hotel.

Día 27. Traslado a aeropuerto. Salida.

*Por favor, tened en cuenta que el itinerario expuesto es sólo una guía de referencia. Problemas con la preparación física de la expedición pueden ocurrir inesperadamente, mas otros, ligados al mal tiempo, que pueden provocar cambio de decisiones en el último momento . Nuestro equipamiento y provisiones deberán ser acarreados durante cierto tiempo en varias subidas a cada campamento. Esta rutina de altas subidas y descansos en baja altitud antes de ocupar cada campamento nos permitirá además una aclimatación escencial. Este período comprende también el descanso necesario tomado en el Campamento Base. El guía de la expedición tiene como objetivo primordial el de llevar la mayor cantidad de montañeros a la cima, en lugar de la adhesión a un itinerario establecido con anterioridad. 

Día 2. Vuelo en helicóptero hasta Campamento Base en el glaciar Moskvina.

Día 3-30. Aclimatación y ascenso.

Día 31. Vuelo en helicóptero hasta Dushanbé. Trasnoche en hotel.

Día 32. Salida de Dushanbé.