The ascent begins from the Base Camp to Camp 1 (4300 m). The terrain is not difficult – mainly trails, one short and one long scree section. No special gear required, just endurance.

Next, the route continues up a steep snow-and-ice slope to Uzlovaya Peak, where Camp 2 is located at 4950 m. This section requires mountaineering skills such as walking in crampons, moving in a rope team, and using an ice axe.

The technically challenging part of the route from Camp 2 to Camp 3 is the so-called “knife.” It’s a steep, narrow ridge about 250 m long, equipped with fixed ropes. After crossing it, the route descends, then climbs again to Border Guard (Pogranichnik) Peak (5000 m) and continues down to Camp 3 (4870 m).

The climb to Camp 4 involves steep ascents over mixed terrain – rock, snow, and ice. Before reaching the plateau where Camp 4 (5700 m) is located, fixed ropes are installed for safety.

The final stage of the route is the summit push and return to Camp 4. The terrain is similar to the previous section but longer and more demanding, with a strong sense of oxygen deficiency. The summit is a gravel-covered dome offering magnificent views of Khan-Tengri Peak, Pobeda Peak, Bayankol, Kazakhstan, Karlytau, Semenov, Peak 11, and other giants of the Tien-Shan range. Marble Wall Peak is the northernmost six-thousander, and weather conditions on the mountain are extremely harsh and unpredictable.

Footwear and Clothing

1. Double-layer high-altitude boots for 6,000+ m (must be comfortable and broken-in)*
2. Spare lightweight boots – trekking boots for the approach to Base Camp and to Camp 1*
3. Light camp shoes (e.g., Crocs) for Base Camp*
4. Socks (thermal and trekking), several pairs*
5. Down socks for sleeping
6. Thermal underwear set
7. Warm jacket (Polartec)*
8. Insulating mid-layer (e.g., fleece thermals)*
9. Insulated pants with side zips (preferably down, or warm Polartec)*
10. Gore-Tex overpants (windproof)*
11. High-altitude down jacket*
12. Gore-Tex jacket (windproof)*
13. Warm hat*
14. Balaclava/buff*
15. Warm mittens (down or equivalent)*
16. Warm gloves (to wear under mittens, e.g., fleece)*
17. Overmitts (outer shell layer)*
18. Synthetic T-shirts*
19. Underwear, several sets*
20. Thin down jacket to wear under the main down jacket*
21. Sunglasses*
22. Ski goggles*

Main Equipment:

1. Backpack 85 L*
2. Duffel bag 100 L
3. Sleeping bag (Comfort -15/20°C, Extreme -25/-30°C)*
4. Sleeping pad (inflatable or foam, at least 2 cm thick; insulation R-value <5)*
5. Harness*
6. Carabiners, 4 pcs*
7. Jumar ascender*
8. Mountaineering crampons*
9. Accessory cord, 3 m*
10. Ice axe*
11. Figure‑eight descender*
12. Climbing helmet*
13. Trekking poles*

Lighting:

1. Headlamp*

Medicine and Hygiene:

1. Personal first-aid kit with medications you typically use, plus a basic self‑aid set*
2. Sunscreen SPF 50+*
3. Lip balm or petroleum jelly*
4. Wet wipes and toilet paper*
5. Toothbrush and toothpaste
6. Hand sanitizer

Cooking and Tableware:

1. Thermos (1 L)*
2. Small pot or Jetboil*
3. Stove (assault tents accommodate 2–3 people; each tent must have one working stove and one spare)*
4. Camping cup and bowl*
5. Standard flint lighter*
6. Folding knife
7. Spoon*

Electronics:

1. Power bank
2. Charging cables

*Items marked with an asterisk (*) are mandatory

Shared group gear is divided equally among participants

The expedition takes place in a border zone; special permits are required. Request must be submitted at least 3 weeks before the start.

Each participant must have insurance with coverage of at least 30 000 USD.

The “Activity” field must explicitly state “mountaineering.”

The insurance policy must include helicopter evacuation.

The assistance company must NOT be Global Voyager. If the insurance is purchased from a company served by the aforementioned assistance provider, transportation and medical expenses will be borne by you.

Participation is not permitted without insurance that meets all requirements.