Elbrus from the South in a guided group on fixed dates

Insurance when climbing Mount Elbrus from the South is WANTED. According to the law, rescue work on the slopes of Mount Elbrus is carried out by the Russian EMERCOM free of charge. Before the start of the trek the guide registers the group with the Ministry of Emergency Situations. In case of emergency you are assisted by the group guides, who communicate with the Ministry of Emergency Situations and descend to the shelter, ropeway, a place where transportation can come. The participant communicates with the insurance company on his/her own or in case the participant cannot contact the insurance company himself/herself, the guide/manager contacts the contact person specified by the participant in the contract. The contact person will contact the insurance company, therefore, your contact person must have a copy of the insurance policy.  Descent of the injured person on the southern slope of Mount Elbrus is carried out on foot or by cable car. Additional means of transportation such as snowcats, snowmobiles, other means of transportation are not included in the tour price and are not covered by any insurance companies!!! In case of necessity to use them, they are paid additionally by the participants themselves in cash.

We RECOMMEND you to make an accident insurance with the indication of occupation ALPINISM, country of stay Russia, the dates of the insurance policy should coincide with the dates of the tour, if you are a citizen of the Russian Federation or with the dates of stay in the Russian Federation, if you are a foreigner. You can choose the amount of coverage yourself. This insurance will provide you with medical treatment in the hospital in case of injuries, frostbite, mountain sickness and other services according to the terms and conditions of the insurance company. The organizer is not responsible for the services provided by the insurance company. In addition, please be responsible for choosing the contact person we will contact in case of an accident.

List of required equipment:

1. Mountain boots. For summer climbing, single-layered leather boots with crampons are suitable. It is desirable to have overboots that you will wear on the day of ascent. Plastic boots with inner boots are also suitable. For winter ascents you should have double boots.
2. Sneakers or trekking boots. You can use them for acclimatization outings where there is no snow. It is important that your boots have good ankle support, which is especially necessary when walking on uneven terrain outside the mountain trails and when descending steep and slippery slopes.
3. Crampons. Any scrampons, soft or hard, are suitable for climbing. It is important that the mounting system of the crampons is compatible with your boots. If you buy or rent crampons, you should have your boots or a photo of your boots with you so that a specialist can choose the right model for you.
4. Backpack of 70 liters or more/bag. Since our climbing trip does not involve traveling long distances with heavy backpacks, you will only need a large backpack or bag for moving and storing your gear.
5. Light  backpack 30-50 liters. With this backpack you will go to acclimatization, with it you will go to the ascent. In this backpack you will put a thermos, a warm jacket and mittens, a snack, a personal pharmacy. Then bigger the size of your things, then bigger the backpack you will need. Take into account the weight of the backpack, the lighter it is, the easier it will be for you to go with it. But a stiff back for such a backpack is not required, as the weight of your gear will be small. A rain cover is a must.
6. Gaiters. You will put them on top of your shoes to prevent stones, snow and rain from getting into them when you go on acclimatization.
7. Overboots (fully covering the boot). You will need them if your boots are not warm enough and/or may get wet in the snow. This applies to all single layer leather boots. Likewise, you'll need overbooties if you're walking in winter in any footwear other than double boots. If you know that your feet are prone to freezing, you will also need overboots for double plastic boots.
8. Sleeping bag (comfort temperature 0/-10). You will sleep in a sleeping bag in the shelter on the mountain. As a rule, the temperature there does not go below 0, there are extra blankets and heaters. But your comfort temperature depends on your heat output, fatigue, acclimatization. If you know that you can't stand the cold well, choose a warmer sleeping bag for comfortable rest, up to -10. For this trip the weight and volume of the sleeping bag is not important.
9. Helmet. Any helmet certified for mountaineering is suitable. If you have the opportunity to try it on, it is better to do so, for a hat. Keep in mind that there are helmets with sizes.
10. Harness. Any certified harness will do, you just need to choose the right size. When choosing the size you should keep in mind that you will put it on your pants and jacket.
11. Carabiners. Three  carabiners. One of them will be fixed to the rope, the second to the ice axe, the third to the stick.
12. Self-belay. It can be a certified self-belay or 3 meters of the main rope.
13. Ice axe. Any ice axe will do, but the longer and lighter it is, the more comfortable it is for you.
14. Trekking poles. Choose three-pronged poles, as they are easier to fold up and carry. The poles should have snow rings and straps.
15. Mountain sunglasses. You need glasses with a protection factor of at least 3, otherwise you risk burning your retinas. You will wear these sunglasses for acclimatization and you will go climbing in case of windless weather.
16. Snowboarding/skiing mask. The mask should also have a protection factor of at least 3, or 4 if you have sensitive eyes. You will take it as a spare mask on the ascent and use it in case of wind or snow.
17. Headlamp. Any flashlight that you can put on your helmet will do. You will need to buy two sets of batteries for it. We always go climbing with a "new" set of batteries, as we go up the mountain at night.
18. Raincoat/poncho. You will need it in the area where rain is possible, i.e. during acclimatization.
19. Membrane pants. These pants will protect you from wind and rain during acclimatization and climbing. Preferably, it should be a single-layer membrane, without insulation.
20. Membrane jacket. The jacket has the same function, protection from wind and rain. A thick fleece and down sweater/jacket should fit easily under the jacket.
21. Down or ski jacket. This is a warm jacket that you will need during the ascent. Most often during summer ascents we carry this jacket in a backpack and put it on before the summit or in case of wind increase, so it is important that it is light and warm. These qualities are met by down jackets or jackets with synthetic fillers. The hood should be worn over the helmet. A ski jacket is suitable, but it may not be warm enough and will be quite heavy.
22. Down or ski pants. Same functions as down jacket. We do not recommend the use of ski overalls because of the inconvenience of using them for mountaineering. When descending in good weather under the sun, you may overheat in it!!!
23. Thin top and bottom thermal underwear. This is the first layer, you will wear it every day, be sure to wear long sleeves so that your arms don't burn.
24. Thick top and bottom thermal underwear. Second layer, used during acclimatization and climbing. under the intense mountain sun.
25. A fleece sweater or down sweater. The main qualities are comfort and lightness. You will wear them all the time.
26. A hat, preferably two-layer, made of fleece, should cover the ears. It shall be worn under the helmet.
27. Balaclava/Buff with fleece part. It is worn under a hat and protects the throat.
28. Cap, panama, lightweight buff. Having a visor or brim will keep your nose from burning.
29. Fleece gloves. Gloves for daily outings. Since they can get wet or lost, it is advisable to have a spare pair.
30. Overmittens. These are membrane mittens that protect your fleece gloved hands from wind, rain and snow.
31. Down mittens. Use only when climbing. They are essential at altitude, as the altitude, fatigue and climate will make your fingers colder than usual.
32. Thin trekking socks 2 pairs. Socks for every day.
33. Thick trekking socks 2 pairs. Socks for climbing.
34. Bowl, mug, spoon, knife. In shelters, it is advisable to use individual dishes so that you can be sure they are clean. If you plan to brew coffee in a mug, you need a metal mug with a handle that will not get hot, not a thermal mug.
35. Thermos 1-1.5 liters. For each day. You will need more liquids for the duration of the ascent than for acclimatization. The lighter the thermos, the easier it will be for you.
36. Personal hygiene products: toilet paper, wet wipes. There is no running water in the shelters, so, you will use wet wipes, toothbrush and toothpaste.
37. Hygienic lipstick with UV protection.
38. Earplugs. Needed by those who are sensitive sleepers.
39. Sunscreen with a level of protection 50+. You will carry it with you every day, it is desirable to have not a very large volume, so as not to carry excess weight.
40. Lighter. A piezo lighter at altitude does not work.
41. Personalized first aid kit: The guides will have a large high-altitude first aid kit with the necessary medical supplies. We recommend that you have a personalized first aid kit for convenience: hydrogen peroxide; 2 bandages; scotch tape; a plate of acetylsalicylic acid; a plate of paracetamol or citramone; a plate of activated charcoal; an elastic bandage; personalized medications for allergies or chronic illnesses.
42. You may need for convenience:- A battery charger (powerbank). Hotels and shelters will have electricity every day, but the number of sockets is limited.- Phone. Cell phone service is available along the entire route.

You can rent equipment after arrival. You can rent equipment in Pyatigorsk or in Terskol before the start of the program. We recommend you to rent your climbing shoes in Pyatigorsk, asking your manager to book them in advance. In Terskol rentals, due to the large number of tourists in the peak season (July-August) may not be the right size.

Prices for equipment in rentals in Pyatigorsk and Terskol.

Prices are approximate, rentals may change prices before the season at their discretion.

What are the best months to climb Elbrus?

The best months are July and August, when the weather is warmest, precipitation is minimal, strong winds are rare, and daylight hours are long.

Climbing is carried out, on the recommendation of the Ministry of Emergency Situations and for safety reasons, in cloudless weather with wind force up to 35 km/h. In other weather conditions, the ascent takes place according to the guide's decision, which he takes depending on the composition and condition of the participants. The tour includes two reserve days in case of bad weather.

What kind of fitness is needed to climb Elbrus?

Elbrus is a technically simple mountain, but physically of medium difficulty. This is due to several factors: the length of the ascent route, the night start, the weather and the altitude. The length of the route from the shelters to the summit is about 7 km. Start to the route takes place at 10-12 pm if the group goes on foot or at 1 am if the group climbs on a snowcat.

Night outing is connected with the fact that in the Caucasus in the second half of the day the weather often changes, clouds come, snowfall, blizzard may start, visibility may worsen or disappear, therefore, it is necessary to come down to the shelter before 12-14 o'clock in the afternoon.

The climb takes about 10-11 hours up and 3-4 hours down, this is the time you will be going at your limit, so you will need endurance and patience. The hardness of the climb increases with altitude and the length of the journey. You gradually lose energy, get tired, and may really want to sleep until dawn. Before dawn is the coldest and darkest time, you need to be patient, with the dawn will be warmer, morally will be easier. Increasing altitude adds heaviness, breathing becomes difficult, speed decreases, slope steepness increases towards the top.

To overcome all this and reach the summit, you need, firstly, physical and moral readiness, secondly, good equipment so that the cold, wind and uncomfortable clothes do not take away your strength, thirdly, a sufficient amount of fast carbohydrates and sweet hot drinks.

It's worth knowing that there is an individual intolerance to heights. It is rare, but it happens.

Preparation for the climb.

The most proper preparation is to train your endurance, as you will have to walk uphill with a backpack for a long time. This can be done with the help of a special simulator, walk up the stairs, run for long distances, preferably uphill. You should start training the moment you decide to take part in the climb.

Mountain sickness and how to acclimatize properly?

Mountain sickness is a worsening of the body condition due to the fact that the amount of oxygen in the air decreases with increasing altitude. This leads to the fact that with the same load, you will find it more difficult to breathe, you will move slower. You may experience dizziness, headaches, nausea, and mood worsening.

The good news is that the body gradually adapts to new conditions through acclimatization. We hike up and hike down, gradually gain altitude, teach our body to work at the new altitude, then hike back down to give it a rest.

Overnight stays at altitude give an opportunity to acclimatize better. Before the ascent it is necessary to let the body regain power, for this purpose after acclimatization we rest, eat, sleep for a day to gain energy.

An indicator of your acclimatization is the amount of oxygen in your blood, saturation. The guides check this indicator for everyone during the ascent. Another indicator of your fitness to reach the summit is your ability to walk to a height of 4800-5000 thousand meters. If you were able to climb, then there is a chance of getting to the top. If it was difficult for you, it is better to use a ratrak, with its use, the chances of climbing to the top in good weather are very high, almost everyone climbs.

For acclimatization, you need to go slowly and save your energy, so, the guide goes at a slow tempo. This is the tempo with which you can climb to the summit and descend to the shelter in a safe time. The guide follows a standard rhythm, 50 minutes walking, 10 minutes standing and breathing. If you are not able to walk with the group at the same tempo, if you start to show signs of mountain sickness, a second guide will go down with you.

How to use a snowcat or snowmobile for the ascent?

You should order a snowcat immediately before the ascent and pay cash to the driver of the ratrak. Approximate cost of a trip on a ratrak upwards costs 10000 rubles per person. A ride on a ratrak saves time, effort and greatly increases the chance to climb to the top.

Where to find information about guides?

Ak-Sai Travel employs experienced and competent guides who have experience in climbing Elbrus, are certified mountaineering guides and instructors. Each of them is a high-class athlete. More detailed information about the guides, you will find on our website on the Elbrus page in the tab "Our Guides".

• Tarasov Sergey

Year of birth: 1966

Sports grade: international class MS in mountaineering, MS in ice climbing.

Mountaineering experience: 1985 – 2023, about 400 ascents up to 6B in real mountains, on sports and training routes as a participant, leader, team leader and instructor. About 100 of them are routes of category 5 and higher, including Lenin village, Khan Tengri village, Korzhenevskaya village, Communism village, Pobedy village, Kazbek, Elbrus (about 100 ascents).

Guide experience: 1989 – 2023. Mountaineering instructor (No. 226) (Ala-Archa, New Ala-Archa, Bezengi, UAL), category 2; 2018 – 2023 Caucasus mountains, guide (No. 0127/21)

Education: 1991 Moscow Aviation Institute; 1998 Ural State Technical University, sports department, mountain sports

Languages: English

Hobby: rock climbing, ice climbing.

• Koshelev Dmitry

Date of birth: July 29, 1981

Sports grade: 1 спортивный разряд по альпинизму, Кандидат в Мастера спорта России по спортивному туризму

Mountaineering experience: пик Корона – траверс 1-я – 5-я башни, 5А; пик Свободная Корея – м-т Барбера 5Б; пик Ленина – 7134 метра, 5А (8 раз); пик Хан-Тенгри – 7010 метров 5А; Эльбрус с юга, севера, востока, «крест» Эльбруса – 5642 метров (20 раз); Казбек (с Северной Осетии) – 5033 метра; Белуха – 4506 метров; Терсколак Зап. (4Б); Байчечекей (4Б); Ак-Тоо (4Б); Симагина (4Б).

Guide experience: инструктор по горным лыжам и сноуборду (2011-2019 гг), спортивный клуб «Вертикаль» (г. Омск) – гид-инструктор активных туров 2006-2019 гг (Алтай, Тянь-Шань, Северный Казахстан, Горная Шория, Кавказ); туристическая фирма «Ак-Сай Тревел» - горный гид на восхождениях на пик Ленина (2016-2022 гг); туристическая фирма X-guide - горный гид на восхождениях на Эльбрус по маршрутам с юга, с востока, с севера; Казбек с севера (2022 г)

Education: высшее, Сибирский Государственный Университет Физической Культуры и Спорта, специальность «Физическая культура и спорт», специализация «Спортивно-оздоровительный туризм», инструктор по горнолыжному спорту категории «С» Национальная Лига инструкторов.

Languages: английский (базовый уровень).

Hobby: чтение, катание на лыжах, плавание.

• Shipilov Vitaly

Year of birth: 1977

Sports grade: Master of Sports in mountaineering, "Snow Leopard".

Mountaineering experience: Erydag, Zamin-Karor, Lenin, Korzhenevskaya, Belukha (repeatedly); Khimik 4B; Free Spain 5B; Dolomites C 5A; Brick 5B; Dalar 5B; Fisht S. 6A; Odessa (4810) 6B; Asan 6A; Ak-Kaya; Sabah 6B (first ascent); Asan 5B; Slesova 6A; Elbrus Z. 2A; Khan Tengri 5A; Communism; Victory; Kyazo-Ri 6B (first ascent); Kazbek from S. 2B; Koshtantau 6A; Marble Wall 5A; Baychechekey 4B; Free Korea 5B; Manaslu 5A.

Guide experience: Category 3 mountaineering instructor, instructor-guide, "Salvation in the Mountains" badge, 3-time champion of Russia in mountaineering in the high-altitude class, nominee for the Golden Ice Ax of Russia award (2013 and 2019), participant in the "Height" project. I have been working as a high-altitude guide and instructor since 2017.

Languages: English (Basic).

Hobby: mountaineering, skiing.