Khan-Tengri Peak (7010 m.) without guide

Route description:

The West Ridge of Khan Tengri is a classic route that presents a reasonable objective for competent mountaineers. The ridge rises from the West Col, which is very enjoyable, straightforward 'scrambling' for the most part, with steep rocky steps linked with snow patches.

There are only a couple of sections which require more care; such as the vertical rock step of about 50ft at 6,800m and the knife above. In terms of equipment needed once on the route, a single ice axe is sufficient, although the addition of a ski pole might be useful.

From the snow caves (near the West Col) a short snow/ice slope of 40o, which is fixed with rope, leads up to the West Col (6000m). The Col is narrow and heavily corniced and the top of the fixed ropes should be carefully noted. A traverse along the Col leads to the mixed ground of the West Ridge where the angle steepness. The route then follows the West Ridge via a number of small bivouac sites at 6200m, 6400m and 6700m.

Almost the entire ridge is fixed with rope, but these need to be used with caution as their condition and the anchors are variable (the ropes are renewed at the beginning of every summer season by local guides). The route follows the crest of the ridge with snow and scrambling interspersed with steeper rock sections until 6,700m. Here a traverse rightwards across snow slopes reaches a steep rock step of some 20m which is severe in standard.

Above this the route climbs into a snow basin and then traverses out rightwards again to exit onto a short steep knife edged snow ridge of some 50m which is very exposed. This is followed leftwards to a steeper section of mixed ground.

Above this, the fixed rope ends and there remains around 300m of easy snow climbing for half an hour to reach the summit. The true summit is rather difficult to find, being a large flat snow dome, so the summit point is marked by a metal tripod.

The descent from the summit is very quick using the fixed ropes. The snow caves can be reached in about 3 hours.

Guide services, rent of tents for high camps are available for the additional payment:

Guide services: 2500 USD per program

Rent of tents for high camps – 80 USD per program

Gas cartridges of 230 g (butane/propane) – 12 USD per one cartridge

International call by satellite telephone – 4 USD/min

Internet - 5 USD/hour

Porter service:

ВС-С-1 - 8 USD per kg
С1-С2 - 15 USD per kg
С2-С3 - 20 USD per kg

Special offer:

Oxygen cylinders - 650 USD

Rent of mask and oxygen pressure reducer - 300 USD

Deposit for oxygen cylinders - 50 USD (refund, if you bring back an empty balloon)

Personal equipment:

Backpack - 85 liters, Sleeping bag -1, Sleeping pad – 1, Helmet -1, Harness – 1, Carbines  - 4, Jumar – 1, Crampons– 1, Repshnur (6-7 mm) – 5 m, Ice axe – 1, Sun glasses – 1 or 2, Torch (headlamp) -1 + set of spare batteries, Ice screw -2, Folding knife – 1, Down jacket/parka -1, Gortex: pants, jacket – 1 suit, Polartec: jacket 200 -1; pants – 1, Thermal underwear – 1 suit, Polartec 100 – 1 suit (jacket, pants), Polartec gloves -1, Overmitts – 1.+ windproof -1, Warm hat -1, Balaclava -1, Warm socks -2 pairs, Socks, Gamashi, Sun protection crèam, Figure-8 descender - 1, Telescopic Sticks (poles). – 1, Avalanche shovel –1, High altitude boots - 1, Trekking boots -1.

Insurance information

Dear guests,

Please pay attention on the fact of your security in case of any accidents if you purchase insurance policy. Responsibility for the reliability of the insurance company and for the accordance of insurance policy to the Ak-Sai Travel demands holds by the owner of insurance. We imperatively recommend to control next information in the insurance policy:

1) GLOBAL VOYAGER CAN NOT INTERVENE as an insurance company assistant  

2) The sum of the policy must cover not less than USD 30.000

3) In the field "occupation" (or "sports practice") "Mountaineering" must be notified

4) As Country of stay - Kyrgyzstan

5) The effective dates of the insurance policy must be included and coincide with the dates of Stay in Kyrgyzstan

6) The insurance policy must cover at least "first aid" and "transport of affected by helicopter if necessary" (be sure of this point to be included during the formalization of the insurance policy)

Note:

Before the formalization of the policy, make sure which assistant operates the insurance company in question.

Please remember: our company does not work with GLOBAL VOYAGER assistant. In case the client has purchased an insurance policy in any company whose assistant is GLOBAL VOYAGER, medical and transportation expenses will be borne by the client involved.