Meeting at the airport, transfer to the hotel. Accommodation and rest after the flight.
Guided Group Expedition to Khan-Tengri Peak
Climbing the legendary Khan-Tengri Peak (7010 m) with acclimatization, accommodation in base camps and helicopter support. An ideal tour for experienced climbers ready for a serious climb.
Description
Khan-Tengri Peak is one of the most beautiful peaks in the world and the northernmost seven-thousander on the planet! The majestic pyramidal shape of the peak rises above the Central Tien-Shan, on the border of Kyrgyzstan and Kazakhstan. Its steep slopes, icefalls and avalanche-prone couloirs make the ascent a truly exciting challenge.
The program is designed for participants with experience of climbing at altitudes of 5000 m and above.
You will get:
- a unique experience of conquering the iconic peak of the world
- an international team of climbers
- accompaniment of experienced guides who know the route down to the smallest detail
- support of comfortable base camps in Engilchek and Karkyra
- stunning views of the Tien-Shan mountain ranges and majestic glaciers
Program
Day 1. Bishkek city
Day 2. Bishkek city – Karkyra Camp
Transfer to the Karkyra camp (460 km, about 7-8 hours). Along the way, picturesque views of Issyk-Kul. Accommodation in a tent camp, dinner, preparation for the flight.
Day 3. Karkyra camp – South Engilchek Base Camp (4000 m)
Helicopter flight to South Engilchek Base Camp (4000 m), accommodation at base camp.
Day 4. Acclimatization and preparation for the ascent
Acclimatization walk around the camp area so that the body gradually gets used to the altitude. Rest and check of high-altitude equipment to prepare for the upcoming ascents.
Day 5. Base Camp – Camp 1 (4200 m)
Camp 1 is located at the confluence of South Engilchek Lake and Semenov glacier on the right-bank moraine at the foot of the slope of Chapaev Peak. The ascent up Semenov glacier in the direction of the icefall is objectively dangerous due to possible avalanches from Chapaev peak and Khan-Tengri Peak. It is recommended to pass this section early in the morning and, preferably, without stopping for rest.
Day 6. Camp 1 – Camp 2 (5300 m)
Passing the icefall, exit to the upper cirque of Semenov glacier. Here at an altitude of 5300 m. Camp 2 is located. Overnight in tents.
Day 7. Camp 2 – Camp 3 (5800 m)
From Camp 2 we climb up the gentle slopes to the upper reaches of the Semenov glacier cirque in the direction of the isthmus between Khan-Tengri Peak and the shoulder of Chapaev Peak. Camp 3 is located on the left side of the isthmus at an altitude of 5800 m. It is possible to pitch tents and spend the night here.
Day 8. Descent to Base Camp South Engilchek
Return to Base Camp South Engilchek, rest and recovery.
Day 9. Rest day
Full day of rest, meals at Base Camp South Engilchek.
Day 10. Preparing for the ascent to the Peak
Gathering, checking equipment.
Day 11. Base Camp – Camp 1 (4200 m)
Climbing along a familiar route.
Day 12. Camp 1 – Camp 2 (5300 m)
Overnight at Camp 2.
Day 13. Camp 2 – Camp 3 (5800 m)
Climbing through snowy and rocky areas. Overnight at Camp 3.
Day 14. Ascent to the summit of 7010 m – Descent to Camp 3
Departure early in the morning. From Camp 3 the route goes through the isthmus and further along the western ridge of Khan-Tengri Peak. The ridge is hung with fixed ropes, “railings”. The route is rocky to a height of 6900 m, then a snow dome, turning into a narrow snow knife, which leads to the summit. Descent to Camp 3. It is worth remembering that the road down is no easier than the ascent.
Day 15. Descent to Base Camp South Engilchek
Returning along the route down.
Day 16-18. Extra Days
Additional days are included in the program in case of inclement weather or other weather conditions.
Day 19. Base Camp South Engilchek – Karkyra Camp – Bishkek city
Helicopter flight to Karkyra – transfer to Bishkek. Accommodation at the hotel.
Day 20. Bishkek city
Free day in Bishkek for rest or excursion.
Day 21. Bishkek – Manas airport
Transfer to Manas airport, flight home.
Tour price per person
| Full package | 4050 USD |
Included in the price:
✅ Meeting/seeing off at the airport or railway station of Bishkek
✅ Transfers airport/railway station of Bishkek – hotel – airport/railway station and back
✅ Transfers Bishkek – helipad and back
✅ Helicopter flight to the Base Camp and back (unlimited cargo transportation)
✅ Accommodation in a hotel in Bishkek with breakfast (no more than 3 nights!)
✅ Lunches on the way Bishkek – Karkyra
✅ Accommodation and meals (3 times a day) in the BC “South Engilchek”
✅ Free use of a hot shower and sauna, toilet, storage room in the BC “South Engilchek”
✅ Guide consultation
✅ Doctor’s consultation
✅ Registration in the rescue squad
✅ Environmental fee for accommodation on the territory of the camp
✅ Use of long-distance radio communication
✅ Rental of radio stations during the ascent (only for groups of over 3 people)
✅ Pass to border/zone
✅ Registration on the territory of Kyrgyzstan (if necessary)
In addition to the services included in the price of the “full package”, the price includes additional services:
✅ professional guide:
group of 1-3 people – 1 guide
group of 4-6 people – 1 guide and 1 assistant guide
group of 7-10 – 1 guide and 2 assistant guides
✅ Set up high-altitude tents (2 people per tent!)
✅ Group equipment: ropes (if necessary), gas and gas burners, sets of kitchen utensils
✅ High-altitude products.
Not included in the price:
❌ Cost of Kyrgyz visa
❌ International flights
❌ Climbing permit
❌ Single occupancy supplement at the hotel
❌ Early check-in at the hotel
❌ All additional deviations from the main route
❌ Drinks and meals not included in the main menu
❌ All personal expenses (additional luggage fees, room service, medical expenses, insurance, etc.)
❌ Equipment rental
Schedule by route: South/North
July 18 – August 7: ascent from the South
July 25 – August 14: ascent from the North
August 1 – August 21: ascent from the South
Required equipment
- High-altitude double boots – 1 pair
- Trekking boots or sneakers – 1 pair
- Overboots– to your notice
- Down jacket/parka -1
- Sleeping bag – 1
- Sleeping pad – 1
- Backpack – 85L
- Gortex: pants, jacket – 1 suit
- Polartex: pants, jacket – 1 suit
- Thermal underwear – 1 suit
- Polartec gloves – 1 pair
- Overmitts – 1 pair + windproof – 1 pair
- Warm hat – 1
- Balaclava – 1
- Warm socks – 2 pairs
- Socks
- Harness – 1
- Carbines – 4 pieces
- Ice screw – 2 pieces
- Jumar – 1
- Figure-8 descender – 1
- Crampons – 1 pair
- Repshnur – 3 m
- Ice axe – 1
- Telescopic sticks – 1 pair
- Helmet – 1
- Sunglasses – 1 or 2
- Torch (headlamp) -1 + set of spare batteries Sunscreen
- Folding knife – 1
- Thermos – 1
- Cup – 1 / Mug – 1 / Spoon – 1
Set of high-altitude products
Insurance policy
Dear climbers,
Please pay attention on the fact of your security in case of any accidents if you purchase insurance policy. Responsibility for the reliability of the insurance company and for the accordance of insurance policy to the Ak-Sai Travel demands holds by the owner of insurance. We imperatively recommend to control next information in the insurance policy:
1) GLOBAL VOYAGER CAN NOT INTERVENE as an insurance company assistant
2) The sum of the policy must cover not less than 30 000 USD
3) In the field “occupation” (or “sports practice”) “Mountaineering” must be notified
4) As Country of stay – Kyrgyzstan
5) The effective dates of the insurance policy must be included and coincide with the dates of Stay in Kyrgyzstan
6) The insurance policy must cover at least “first aid” and “transport of affected by helicopter if necessary” (be sure of this point to be included during the formalization of the insurance policy)
Note:
Before the formalization of the policy, make sure which assistant operates the insurance company in question.
Please remember: our company does not work with GLOBAL VOYAGER assistant. In case the client has purchased an insurance policy in any company whose assistant is GLOBAL VOYAGER, medical and transportation expenses will be born by the client involved.
Tour map
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Guided Group Expedition to Khan-Tengri Peak
Climbing the legendary Khan-Tengri Peak (7010 m) with acclimatization, accommodation in base camps and helicopter support. An ideal tour for experienced climbers ready for a serious climb.
Mountaineering
July–August
Difficulty level
21 days, 20 nights
from
$4,050
- In local currency: 354 173 KGS
Our managers will definitely reach out to you as soon as possible during working hours — from 09:00 to 21:00 Bishkek time.
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