Lenin Peak & Khan Tengri Expedition

The Lenin Peak & Khan Tengri Expedition is a serious self-guided double-7000 m campaign. It combines one of the world’s classic first 7000 m peaks with one of the most technical and demanding summits in the Tien Shan, so participants should already have solid high-altitude experience and be comfortable operating independently on glaciers, fixed ropes, and high camps.

This expedition is best suited for climbers who:

• have previous climbing experience above 5000–6000 m
• are confident using crampons, ice axe, and rope systems
• can move efficiently on glacier terrain and fixed ropes
• understand acclimatization, recovery, and pacing over a long expedition
• want to use Lenin Peak as a strong acclimatization objective before attempting the more technical challenge of Khan Tengri

A valid high-altitude mountaineering insurance policy is mandatory.

Insurance must meet the following requirements:

• minimum coverage of $30,000
• helicopter evacuation coverage included
• activity must specify “Mountaineering / Alpinism”
• country of stay: Kyrgyzstan
• valid for the entire expedition duration

Please note:

Ak-Sai Travel does not work with GLOBAL VOYAGER assistant services.
If your insurance provider uses this assistant, evacuation and medical support may not be covered.

Climbers are responsible for ensuring their insurance meets all requirements.

This expedition begins in Osh for the Lenin Peak stage and finishes in Bishkek after the Khan Tengri stage.

The travel flow is:

• Osh — Achyk-Tash Base Camp for Lenin Peak
• return to Osh after the first summit stage
• domestic flight Osh — Bishkek
• overland transfer Bishkek — Karkyra
• helicopter access to South Engilchek Base Camp for the Khan Tengri stage

Because the second half of the expedition depends on helicopter operations, the full campaign must be planned around the South Engilchek helicopter schedule.

Medical consultation and first-aid support are available during the expedition, including at Achyk-Tash Base Camp, Camp 1 on Lenin Peak, and the South Engilchek Base Camp stage. The program also includes doctor consultation and rescue team registration.

Ak-Sai supports the expedition with:

• radio communication on the route
  
• rescue team registration
  
• fixed ropes on key sections
  
• established Base Camp logistics across both mountain stages

In case of emergency, rescue and evacuation depend on weather, terrain, altitude, and helicopter availability.

Helicopter evacuation may be possible in certain situations, but it is not guaranteed due to mountain weather and operational limitations. This is one of the reasons why compliant insurance with helicopter evacuation coverage is mandatory.

Both mountains involve objective hazards, but the nature of those hazards differs:

• Lenin Peak: glacier travel, crevasses, fixed-rope sections, and long movement above 6000 m
• Khan Tengri: glacier terrain, fixed ropes, exposed ridge climbing, and more technical snow, ice, and rock sections

Climbers must be able to move safely and independently in rope teams and high camps.

Weather can change rapidly on both Lenin Peak and Khan Tengri, especially above 6000 m. Summit attempts depend on:

• weather conditions
• route conditions
• acclimatization and recovery
• safe summit windows on both mountains

Reserve days are a critical part of the expedition strategy.

Climbers must bring appropriate equipment for high-altitude mountaineering conditions on a 6000 m expedition.

Certain equipment can be rented directly at Achyk-Tash Base Camp, subject to availability.

Certain equipment can be rented from Ak-Sai Travel, subject to availability.

Please confirm availability with the expedition manager in advance. Equipment is issued at Base Camp.

Additional logistics and services are available at Achyk-Tash Base Camp and higher camps during the climbing season.

Additional logistics and services are available at South / North Engilchek Base Camps and higher camps during the climbing season.

During the climbing season, Achyk-Tash Base Camp, Camp 1 and Karkyra Camp provides buffet-style meals including breakfast, lunch, and dinner designed to support the energy demands of high-altitude climbing.

At South / North Engilchek Base Camps, early breakfasts are available between 03:00–04:00 for climbers starting acclimatization rotations or summit pushes.

For higher camps, climbers may bring their own food supplies or purchase additional expedition food at Base Camps, including instant meals and freeze-dried dishes.

Camp Shop Food Prices

Basic expedition foods are available for purchase at Base Camp.

To book, simply speak with our expedition specialist through the contact section on this page or by WhatsApp.

An Ak-Sai Travel expedition manager will review your request and help confirm:

• expedition fit and experience level
• available dates
• package and logistics
• required documents

Once everything is confirmed, we will send you the booking form to complete your reservation.

Before the expedition begins, participants will need to provide:

• apassport details
• proof of insurance
• expedition package selection

Some expedition expenses are not included in the standard packages.

Typical additional costs may include:

• international flights
• climbing permits
• personal insurance
• porter services
• equipment rental
• internet access or additional camp services

A full list of optional services and prices will be available in the expedition application form.

Possible in some situations, but never guaranteed. Weather, altitude, and terrain may limit evacuation options.

The expedition is designed for July–August, when both mountain systems are active and helicopter access to South Engilchek is operating.