Meeting at the airport, transfer to the hotel. Accommodation and rest after the flight.
Climbing to Khan-Tengri Peak (without guide)
Climbing the legendary Khan-Tengri Peak (7010 m) – a self-guided expedition for experienced climbers. Participants independently traverse glaciers and high-altitude slopes, enjoying the magnificent views of the Tien-Shan Mountains.
Description
Khan-Tengri Peak is one of the most beautiful peaks in the world and the northernmost seven-thousander on the planet! The majestic pyramidal shape of the peak rises above the Central Tien-Shan, on the border of Kyrgyzstan and Kazakhstan. Its steep slopes, icefalls and avalanche-prone couloirs make the ascent a truly exciting challenge.
The program is designed for experienced mountaineers with prior ascents above 5000 m and involves a self-guided climb without a guide. Participants are provided with logistics, comfortable base camps in Karkyra and South Enilchek, as well as the opportunity to join an international mountaineering community.
Program
Day 1. Bishkek city
Day 2. Bishkek city – Karkyra Camp
Transfer to the Karkyra camp (460 km, about 7-8 hours). Along the way, picturesque views of Issyk-Kul. Accommodation in a tent camp, dinner, preparation for the flight.
Day 3. Karkyra Camp – South Engilchek Base Camp (4000 m)
Helicopter flight to South Engilchek Base Camp (4000 m), accommodation at base camp.
Day 4. Acclimatization and Preparation for the Ascent
Acclimatization walk around the camp area so that the body gradually gets used to the altitude. Rest and check of high-altitude equipment to prepare for the upcoming ascents.
Day 5. Base Camp – Camp 1 (4200 m)
Camp 1 is located at the confluence of South Engilchek Lake and Semenov glacier on the right-bank moraine at the foot of the slope of Chapaev Peak. The ascent up Semenov glacier in the direction of the icefall is objectively dangerous due to possible avalanches from Chapaev peak and Khan-Tengri Peak. It is recommended to pass this section early in the morning and, preferably, without stopping for rest.
Day 6. Camp 1 – Camp 2 (5300 m)
Passing the icefall, exit to the upper cirque of Semenov glacier. Here at an altitude of 5300 m. Camp 2 is located. Overnight in tents.
Day 7. Camp 2 – Camp 3 (5800 m)
From Camp 2 we climb up the gentle slopes to the upper reaches of the Semenov glacier cirque in the direction of the isthmus between Khan-Tengri Peak and the shoulder of Chapaev Peak. Camp 3 is located on the left side of the isthmus at an altitude of 5800 m. It is possible to pitch tents and spend the night here.
Day 8. Descent to Base Camp South Engilchek
Return to Base Camp South Engilchek, rest and recovery.
Day 9. Rest Day
Full day of rest, meals at Base Camp South Engilchek.
Day 10. Preparing for the Ascent to the Peak
Gathering, checking equipment, preparing for the final exit.
Day 11. Base Camp – Camp 1 (4200 m)
Climbing along a familiar route.
Day 12. Camp 1 – Camp 2 (5300 m)
Overnight at Camp 2.
Day 13. Camp 2 – Camp 3 (5800 m)
Climbing through snowy and rocky areas. Overnight at Camp 3.
Day 14. Ascent to the Summit of 7010 m – Descent to Camp 3
Departure early in the morning. From Camp 3 the route goes through the isthmus and further along the western ridge of Khan-Tengri Peak. The ridge is hung with fixed ropes, “railings”. The route is rocky to a height of 6900 m, then a snow dome, turning into a narrow snow knife, which leads to the summit. Descent to Camp 3. It is worth remembering that the road down is no easier than the ascent.
Day 15. Descent to Base Camp South Engilchek
Returning along the route down.
Day 16-18. Extra Days
Additional days are included in the program in case of inclement weather or other weather conditions.
Day 19. Base camp South Engilchek – Karkyra Camp – Bishkek city
Helicopter flight to Karkyra – transfer to Bishkek. Accommodation at the hotel.
Day 20. Bishkek city
Free day in Bishkek for rest or excursion.
Day 21. Bishkek – Manas airport
Transfer to Manas airport, flight home.
Tour price per person
| Economy package | 1900 USD |
| Basic package | 3100 USD |
Economy Package includes:
✅ Helicopter flight to South/North Engilchek Base Camp and back with cargo up to 30 kg (overweight charged at 5 USD/kg)
✅ Transfers: Bishkek – Karkyra – Bishkek
✅ Medical consultations
✅ Environmental fee for staying at the camp
✅ Use of long-range radio communication
✅ Use of fixed ropes
✅ Use of radios during the climb (for groups of more than 3 people)
✅ Border zone permit
✅ Registration in Kyrgyzstan (if required)
Basic Package includes:
✅ Airport meet-and-greet and farewell at Manas Airport or Bishkek railway station
✅ Transfers: Manas Airport / Bishkek railway station – hotel – Manas Airport / Bishkek railway station
✅ Transfers: Bishkek – Karkyra – Bishkek
✅ Helicopter flight to South/North Engilchek Base Camp and back with cargo up to 40 kg (overweight charged at 5 USD/kg)
✅ Hotel accommodation in Bishkek with breakfast (2 nights)
✅ Meals during transfers Bishkek – Karkyra – Bishkek
✅ Accommodation and meals (3 times a day) at South/North Engilchek Base Camp and Karkyra
✅ Free use of hot shower, sauna, toilet, and storage at South/North Engilchek Base Camp
✅ First aid and medical consultations
✅ Environmental fee for staying at the camp
✅ Use of long-range radio communication
✅ Use of fixed ropes
✅ Use of radios during the climb (for groups of more than 3 people)
✅ Border zone permit
✅ Registration in Kyrgyzstan (if required)
Not included in the packages:
❌ Kyrgyz visa processing
❌ International flights
❌ Insurance
❌ Climbing permit
❌ Any additional deviations from the route
❌ Drinks and meals not included in the program
❌ All personal expenses
❌ Services of a mountain guide and porters
❌ Equipment rental
Required Equipment
- High-altitude double boots – 1 pair
- Trekking boots or sneakers – 1 pair
- Overboots– to your notice
- Down jacket/parka -1
- Sleeping bag – 1
- Sleeping pad – 1
- Backpack – 85L
- Gortex: pants, jacket – 1 suit
- Polartex: pants, jacket – 1 suit
- Thermal underwear – 1 suit
- Polartec gloves – 1 pair
- Overmitts – 1 pair + windproof – 1 pair
- Warm hat – 1
- Balaclava – 1
- Warm socks – 2 pairs
- Socks
- Harness – 1
- Carbines – 4 pieces
- Ice screw – 2 pieces
- Jumar – 1
- Figure-8 descender – 1
- Crampons – 1 pair
- Repshnur – 3 m
- Ice axe – 1
- Telescopic sticks – 1 pair
- Helmet – 1
- Sunglasses – 1 or 2
- Torch (headlamp) -1 + set of spare batteries Sunscreen
- Folding knife – 1
- Thermos – 1
- Cup – 1 / Mug – 1 / Spoon – 1
Set of High-Altitude Products
Insurance Policy
Dear climbers,
To participate in the expedition, an insurance policy is OBLIGATORY condition. By purchasing an insurance policy, first of all, you protect yourself in the event of an accident.
Our company will be able to assist in the conduct of search and rescue operations and the provision of medical services only if our requirements for the insurance policy are met:
1) A GLOBAL VOYAGER CAN NOT INTERVENE as an insurance company assistant. Our company does not work with GLOBAL VOYAGER assistant. In case the client has purchased an insurance policy in any company whose assistant is GLOBAL VOYAGER, medical and transportation expenses will be borne by the client involved.
2) The sum of the policy must cover not less than 30 000 USD.
3) The insurance policy must cover at least “first aid” and “transportation of the injured” by helicopter if necessary. The amount of coverage for the “transportation of the injured” must be at least 20000 USD (be sure of this point to be included during the formalization of the insurance policy).
4) In the field “activity” (or “sports”) must be indicated “ALPINISM”.
5) As Country of stay – Kyrgyzstan
6) The dates of the insurance policy must be included and coincide with the dates of stay in Kyrgyzstan.
7) The climbers need independently check the compliance of the insurance policy with the requirements above, since Ak-Sai Travel is not responsible for the reliability of the insurance company you have chosen.
Note:
Before the formalization of the policy, make sure which assistant operates the insurance company in question.
Please remember: our company does not work with GLOBAL VOYAGER assistant. In case the client has purchased an insurance policy in any company whose assistant is GLOBAL VOYAGER, medical and transportation expenses will be borne by the client involved.
Tour map
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Climbing to Khan-Tengri Peak (without guide)
Climbing the legendary Khan-Tengri Peak (7010 m) – a self-guided expedition for experienced climbers. Participants independently traverse glaciers and high-altitude slopes, enjoying the magnificent views of the Tien-Shan Mountains.
Mountaineering
July–August
Difficulty level
Tour on request
For more information about this tour, please contact our manager
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