A self-guided high-altitude expedition to Lenin Peak (7134 m) and Khan Tengri (7010 m), offering impressive mountain scenery, structured acclimatization, and full logistical support for first-time 7000 m climbers.
Climb two legendary 7000-meter peaks in the heart of the Pamirs and Tien Shan. This expedition is designed for climbers aiming to reach their first 7000 m summit, with excellent acclimatization and strong logistical support. Along the way, immerse yourself in Central Asian culture while taking on the iconic Lenin Peak (7134 m) and Khan-Tengri (7010 m)— a true high-altitude adventure with maximum safety and comfort.
Day 1. Osh - Base Camp Achyk-Tash (3600 m)
Upon arrival in Osh, you will be met by our representative. After gathering all participants, you will travel to Achyk-Tash Base Camp, crossing two beautiful passes. The journey will take 5-7 hours. You will enjoy the picturesque landscapes and get a feel for the upcoming high-altitude expedition.
At the camp, you will be met by the camp chief or administrator, who will assist you with your accommodations and provide you with all the necessary information.
Day 2. Acclimatization ascent of Petrovskogo peak - Base Camp
After breakfast, an acclimatization hike to the ridge of Petrovsky Peak. Climb to the snow, reaching an altitude of 4,000 meters. From the ridge, a breathtaking view opens up over the Alay Valley and the Achyk-Tash gorge. Return to Base Camp for lunch. Rest and prepare for the trek to Camp 1.
Day 3. Climb to the Camp 1 (4400 m)
After breakfast, ascent to Camp 1. The luggage can be transported on a horseback (for an additional fee). From Base Camp to «Lukovaya Polyana» – 1 hour way on foot, but can be reached by transport. Further, you go along a good path through Traveler’s Pass and along the slopes of the spur to the right of the Lenin glacier to Camp 1, approximate time 4-5 hours. Camp 1 is located on a moraine. Before reaching it, you must cross the river.
Day 4. Acclimatization ascent of Domashniy peak (4700 m)
After breakfast, you will set off on an ascent to Yukhin Peak or Domashniy Peak. The climb requires no special skills or equipment, making it accessible to most participants. Return and overnight will be at Camp 1.
Day 5. Ascent to Camp 2 (5300 m)
From Camp 1 to Camp 2 you leave one hour before dawn to avoid heat and wet snow. As you crossed the moraine and approached the foot of the northern slope, it is necessary to move in a rope team and in crampons. Further, rise in the center of the steep northern slope, to the left of the icefall, there are many ice cracks on the way. The most dangerous and difficult places are fix with ropes. In the upper part of the ascent, the route goes to the right, to the vast ice plateau called «Skovorodka». Cross the plateau from left to right. On the surface moraine at the base of the northwest ridge, at an altitude of 5300 m, is Сamp 2. Average time is 7-9 hours. Overnight in tents at Camp 2. Self cooking.
Day 6. Ascent to Camp 3 (6200 m)
Start at 9 o’clock in the morning. Movement in crampons and in rope team. As overcame a steep takeoff, the route goes to a gentle northwest ridge. Further, left along the ridge to a steep take-off of the Razdelnaya peak. Camp 3 is located on the spacious dome of the peak at an altitude of 6100 m. From Camp 2 to Camp 3 it will take 4-6 hours. Overnight at Camp 3, self-cooking.
Day 7. Descent to Camp 1 (4400 m)
Early in the morning starts the descent from Camp 3 to Camp 1. Movement in crampons and in rope team. Upon arrival, have a lunch at Camp 1. Dinner and night in Camp 1.
Day 8. Descent to Base Camp (3600 m)
Continue the descent to Achyk-Tash Base Camp.
Day 9. Rest day
Time to rest at Base Camp and prepare for the next stage of the route.
Day 10. Preparation day
Gathering, checking equipment.
Day 11. Climb to Camp 1 (4400m)
Rest at Base Camp, climbing preparation.
Day 12. Ascent to Camp 2 (5300 m)
Departure at 4 a.m. Ascent along the northern slope of Lenin peak. Movement in crampons and in rope team, overcoming glacial cracks. After the acclimatization, the ascent requires less effort and time. Overnight in tents at Camp 2. Self cooking.
Day 13. Ascent to Camp 3 (6100 m)
Start at 9 a.m. Right after leaving the camp, there is a steep climb onto the ridge. The climb then continues along a wide ridge, followed by a steep climb to the summit of Razdelnaya Peak. Movement in crampons and in rope team. The average walking time is 4-6 hours. After acclimatization, the ascent takes less time and effort.
Overnight at Сamp 3, self-cooking. Preparing for the climb.
Day 14. Summit push of the Lenin peak (7134 m) - Descent to Camp 3 (6100 m)
Leaving Camp 3 before dawn. Movement in crampons. Go down from Camp 3 to the saddle and climb the steep slope up the wide western ridge of Lenin Peak. Holding onto the left side of the ridge, proceed toward the summit.
After traversing a steep (45-degree) 80-meter-long ice slope called “The Knife,” and passing between rocks, the route crosses a vast, gently rolling snowfield called “Parachutists’ Plateau” and emerges onto the gently rolling rocky hills surrounding the summit. There are no clear landmarks here, and in poor visibility, it’s easy to get lost. A small bust of Lenin stands at the summit.
Important safety rule: if you haven’t reached the summit by 2:00 PM, you must immediately begin your descent to the summit camp!
Day 15. Descent to Camp 1 (4400 m)
Early in the morning start your descent from Camp 3 to Camp 1. Movement is carried out using crampons and roped teams. Upon arrival, lunch at Camp 1 and time for rest.
Day 16. Descent to Base Camp (3600 m)
Transfer to Base Camp. The cargo can be sent by horse (extra charge). Climbers’ award ceremony at Base Camp.
Day 17-18. Rest days
Time to rest at Base Camp and prepare for the next stage of the route.
Day 19. Base Camp Achyk-Tash – Osh city
After breakfast transfer to Osh city. There will be a lunchbox for lunch. Upon arrival, you will be accommodated at the hotel and have time to rest.
Day 20. Flight to Bishkek
The driver will pick you up from the hotel at the required time and take you to the airport for the desired flight.
Day 21. Free day in Bishkek
Free day in Bishkek to rest, explore the city, shop for souvenirs, or enjoy local cuisine.
Day 22. Transfer Bishkek – Karkyra (460 km)
Transfer to the Karkyra camp (460 km, about 7-8 hours). Along the way, picturesque views of Issyk-Kul. Accommodation in a tent camp, dinner, preparation for the flight.
Day 23. Karkyra camp – South Engilchek Base Camp (4000 m)
Helicopter flight to South Engilchek Base Camp (4000 m), accommodation at base camp.
Day 24. Acclimatization and preparation for ascent
Acclimatization walk around the camp area so that the body gradually gets used to the altitude. Rest and check of high-altitude equipment to prepare for the upcoming ascents.
Day 25. Base Camp - Camp 1 (4200m)
Camp 1 is located at the confluence of South Engilchek Lake and Semenov glacier on the right-bank moraine at the foot of the slope of Chapaev Peak. The ascent up Semenov glacier in the direction of the icefall is objectively dangerous due to possible avalanches from Chapaev peak and Khan-Tengri Peak. It is recommended to pass this section early in the morning and, preferably, without stopping for rest.
Day 26. Camp 1 – Camp 2 (5300 m)
Passing the icefall, exit to the upper cirque of Semenov glacier. Here at an altitude of 5300 m. Camp 2 is located. Overnight in tents.
Day 27. Camp 2 - Camp 3 (5800 m)
From Camp 2 we climb up the gentle slopes to the upper reaches of the Semenov glacier cirque in the direction of the isthmus between Khan-Tengri Peak and the shoulder of Chapaev Peak. Camp 3 is located on the left side of the isthmus at an altitude of 5800 m. It is possible to pitch tents and spend the night here.
Day 28. Summit push (7010m) - descent to Camp 3
Departure early in the morning. From Camp 3 the route goes through the isthmus and further along the western ridge of Khan-Tengri Peak. The ridge is hung with fixed ropes, “railings”. The route is rocky to a height of 6900 m, then a snow dome, turning into a narrow snow knife, which leads to the summit. Descent to Camp 3. It is worth remembering that the road down is no easier than the ascent.
Day 29. Descent to Base Camp South Engilchek
Returning along the route down.
Days 30-32. Reserve days in case of bad weather
Additional days are included in the program in case of inclement weather or other weather conditions.
Day 33. Base Camp South Engilchek – Karkyra Camp – Bishkek city
Helicopter flight to Karkyra – transfer to Bishkek. Accommodation at the hotel.
Day 34. Bishkek city
Free day in Bishkek for rest or excursion.
Day 35. Bishkek city - Manas Airport
Transfer to Manas airport, flight home.
| Basic package price | 3600 |
Included in the price:
Meeting/seeing off at the airport of Bishkek and Osh
Transfers airport – hotel – airport in Bishkek and Osh
Transfer Osh – Achyk-Tash Base Camp – Osh
Transfer Bishkek – Karkyra – Bishkek
Flight Osh – Bishkek (free baggage allowance – 15 kg; over transportation additionally paid – 1-2 USD/kg)
Helicopter flight to South Engilchek transportation (transportation of cargo without limit)
Accommodation at hotels in Bishkek and in Osh with breakfast (not more than 3 nights!)
Lunch on the road Osh – Achyk-Tash – Osh and Bishkek – Karkyra – Bishkek
Accommodation and meals (3 times a day) in the Base Camps: “Achyk-Tash”, “Camp 1 on 4400 m”, “South Engilchek” and “Karkyra”
Free use of a hot shower or bath, toilet, lockers in
Base Camps: “Achyk-Tash”, “Camp 1 at 4400 m”, “South Engilchek” and “Karkyra”
Consultation of doctor registration in rescue team
Environmental fee for living in camps
Fixed “ropes” during the rote
Radio stations during climbing (only for groups of more than 3 persons)
Border permit
Registration on the territory of Kyrgyzstan (if necessary)
Not included in the tour price:
Cost of a Kyrgyz VISA
International flights
Insurance police
Climbing permit
Supplement for single accommodation in the hotel
Early check-in/late check-out at the hotel
All additional deviations from the main route
Drinks and meals not included in the main menu
All personal expenses (additional baggage charges, room service, medical expenses, insurance, etc.)
Porter’s services
Rent of equipment
July: 7, 13, 18, 19, 20, 21, 25, 26, 27
August: 1, 2, 3, 4, 8, 9, 10, 15, 16, 19, 22, 23, 24
Dear climbers,
To participate in the expedition to Lenin Peak, an insurance policy is OBLIGATORY condition. By purchasing an insurance policy, first of all, you protect yourself in the event of an accident.
Our company will be able to assist in the conduct of search and rescue operations and the provision of medical services only if our requirements for the insurance policy are met:
1) A GLOBAL VOYAGER CAN NOT INTERVENE as an insurance company assistant. Our company does not work with GLOBAL VOYAGER assistant. In case the client has purchased an insurance policy in any company whose assistant is GLOBAL VOYAGER, medical and transportation expenses will be borne by the client involved.
2) The sum of the policy must cover not less than USD 30000,00
3) The insurance policy must cover at least “first aid” and “transportation of the injured” by helicopter if necessary. The amount of coverage for the “transportation of the injured” must be at least $ 20000,00 (be sure of this point to be included during the formalization of the insurance policy).
4) In the field “activity” (or “sports”) must be indicated “ALPINISM”.
5) As Country of stay – Kyrgyzstan.
6) The dates of the insurance policy must be included and coincide with the dates of stay in Kyrgyzstan.
7) The climbers need independently check the compliance of the insurance policy with the requirements above, since Ak-Sai Travel is not responsible for the reliability of the insurance company you have chosen.
Laundry service (washing machine) at Base Camp Achyk-Tash: 15 USD/load.
Sauna at Base Camp Achyk-Tash (capacity – 4 people): 25 USD/2 hours.
Internet (WI-FI):
Overnight in already installed high altitude tent at Camp 2 and Camp 3 (capacity – 2 pax): 80 USD / tent / night.
Gas cartridge KOVEA / COLEMAN 230 gr:
Gas cartridge COLEMAN 440 g:
Oxygen cylinder – 950 USD/pcs
Rent of mask and oxygen pressure reducer – 500 USD/pcs
Deposit for the return of an empty cylinder – 50 USD/pcs
High-altitude guide services per program for Lenin Peak (1-3 persons): 2400 USD
High-altitude guide services per program for Khan Tengri (1-3 persons): 2900 USD
Guide services per day from Camp 1: 200 USD / day, assault on the peak – 1200 USD
Porters’ services, cost per kg in USD:
Flight Bishkek – Osh – Bishkek (according to the tariffs of airlines): 50-80 USD (one way).
Accommodation in a hotel in Bishkek or Osh with breakfast – on request.
Transfer airport – hotel / hotel – airport one way – on request.
Group transfer Osh – Base Camp Achyk-Tash or Base Camp Achyk-Tash – Osh one way (according to the schedule) – 50 USD / person.
Individual transfer Osh – Base Camp Achyk-Tash / Base Camp Achyk-Tash – Osh one way:
High-altitude double boots – 1 pair
Trekking boots or sneakers – 1 pair
Overboots – optional
Down jacket/parka – 1
Sleeping bag – 1
Sleeping pad – 1
Backpack – 85L
Gortex: pants, jacket – 1 suit
Polartex: pants, jacket – 1 suit
Thermal underwear – 1 suit
Polartec gloves – 1 pair
Overmitts – 1 pair + windproof – 1 pair
Warm hat – 1
Balaclava – 1
Warm socks – 2 pairs
Socks – additional pairs
Harness – 1
Carbines – 4 pieces
Ice screw – 2 pieces
Jumar – 1
Figure-8 descender – 1
Crampons – 1 pair
Repschnur – 3 m
Ice axe – 1
Telescopic sticks – 1 pair
Helmet – 1
Sunglasses – 1 or 2
Torch (headlamp) – 1 + set of spare batteries
Sunscreen
Folding knife – 1
Thermos – 1
Cup / Mug – 1
Spoon – 1
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A self-guided high-altitude expedition to Lenin Peak (7134 m) and Khan Tengri (7010 m), offering impressive mountain scenery, structured acclimatization, and full logistical support for first-time 7000 m climbers.
Mountaineering
July - August
Difficulty level
For more information about this tour, please contact our manager
Our managers will definitely reach out to you as soon as possible during working hours — from 09:00 to 21:00 Bishkek time.
Route: Osh – Achyk-Tash – Petrovsky Peak – Camp 1 – Yukhin Peak – Camp 1 – Camp 2 – Razdelnaya Peak – Achyk-Tash – Osh
118 058 KGS
Route: Almaty – Zharkulak mine – Base Camp – Camp 1 – Base Camp – Camp 1 – Camp 2 – Base Camp – Camp 1 – Camp 2 – Camp 3 – Camp 4 – Marble Wall Peak – Camp 4 – Camp 3 – Base Camp – Zharkulak mine – Almaty
201 135 KGS
Route: Dushanbe – Dzhirgital – Moskvin – Ozodi peak (Korzhenevskaya) – Moskvin – Dzhirgital – Pamir plateau – Dushanbe peak – I. Somoni peak (Communism) – Dushanbe peak – Pamir plateau – Moskvin – Dzhirgital – Dushanbe
Route: Bishkek – Karkyra – Base Camp – Camp 1 – Camp 2 – Camp 3 – Base Camp – Camp 1 – Camp 2 – Camp 3 – Khan-Tengri Peak – Camp 3 – Base Camp – Karkyra – Bishkek
354 173 KGS
Route: Osh – Achyk-Tash – Petrovsky Peak – Camp 1 – Domashniy Peak - Yukhin Peak – Camp 2 – Camp 3 – Camp 1 - Achyk-Tash – Camp 1 – Camp 2 – Camp 3 – Lenin Peak – Camp 3 – Camp 1 – Achyk-Tash – Osh
201 135 KGS
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