From the base camp at Moskvin Glade, the route begins along a clearly visible trail that runs along the moraine of the Walter Glacier. The glacier is crossed in the area of the “Helipad”. After that, the route continues towards a wide, gentle snow shelf that leads directly to the Borodkin Ridge. The middle and upper parts of the ledge, also called the Snow Pillow, are in an area prone to icefalls. It is recommended to pass this section as quickly as possible.

When reaching the ridge, you will have to overcome a small rocky section, which is usually secured with safety ropes.

Camp 1 is set up at an altitude of 5100 m.

The route then continues along a moderately steep snow slope to the so-called “Grudi” (about 6300 m). Here, there may be hidden crevasses and avalanche danger. This is followed by a descent to the site of Camp 2 (6100 m) on the Pamir Firn Plateau.

From Camp 3, the route goes across a bridge to the base of a steep snow and ice slope known as “Lopata”. The ascent (about 400 m) leads to a sharp summit ridge, along which the final ascent to the summit is made.

The descent follows the ascent route and usually takes two days.

From Moskvin Glade, the route begins with a crossing of the Moskvin Glacier along a marked trail. This is followed by a short ascent and descent into a unique canyon. The trail continues around the base of the southern spur.

Then begins the ascent to the overnight camp at 5100 m. The last section is a steep scree slope that requires caution.

Camp 5100 is located on a rocky slope and offers many places to set up tents. The transition from Base Camp takes 6-8 hours.

A little higher, after a steep ice climb, there are more good places to spend the night at 5300 m.

Immediately after Camp 5300, the snow zone begins. After the snow climb, there is a traverse to the right, the condition of which changes annually due to the large number of crevasses.

Then the route enters a technically difficult section – an ice wall. It is important to be careful here due to the possibility of falling rocks.

The 5800 m overnight camp is located at the base of the southwestern wall, in a “pocket” under the overhanging wall. This place is protected from rockfalls and is located on a snow cushion. The width of the shelf suitable for setting up tents is about 3-4 m, and up to 10 tents can comfortably fit here.

Next is a long traverse to the right along the snowy slopes under the rocks. Rockfalls and possible avalanches pose a danger. The traverse ends with an ascent to a small snowy saddle at the base of the southern summit ridge.

This is where you can spend the night at 6100 m – the space is limited and suitable for a maximum of two tents. The transition from 5300 m takes about 5 hours.

The section from 6100 to 6400 m is steep and consists of rocks, ice, and snow. As a rule, it is equipped with railings and takes about 1 hour to complete.

The section from 6,100 to 6,400 m is steep and consists of rocks, ice, and snow. As a rule, it is equipped with railings and takes about 1 hour to traverse.

At 6400 m, there is a more comfortable camp on a wide snowfield – a convenient place to set up a large number of tents. From here, the summit is clearly visible and the final assault on the summit takes place.

The last section of the route is a series of alternating ascents and descents with a total elevation gain of about 700 m – the so-called “camel”. Technically, this section is not difficult, but it requires caution on the narrow ridge and steep snowy ascents.

The rock tower on the way is bypassed on the right. Further along the snowy slope, you reach the summit, which is a snowy plateau.

The ascent from the assault camp takes 5-6 hours. After storming the summit, climbers descend back to 6400 m for the night, and the next day to Base Camp.

Dear climbers,

To participate in the expedition an insurance policy is OBLIGATORY condition. By purchasing an insurance policy, first of all, you protect yourself in the event of an accident.

Our company will be able to assist in the conduct of search and rescue operations and the provision of medical services only if our requirements for the insurance policy are met:

1) A GLOBAL VOYAGER CAN NOT INTERVENE as an insurance company assistant. Our company does not work with GLOBAL VOYAGER assistant. In case the client has purchased an insurance policy in any company whose assistant is GLOBAL VOYAGER, medical and transportation expenses will be borne by the client involved.

2) The sum of the policy must cover not less than 30 000 USD

3) The insurance policy must cover at least “first aid” and “transportation of the injured” by helicopter if necessary. The amount of coverage for the “transportation of the injured” must be at least $ 20000,00 (be sure of this point to be included during the formalization of the insurance policy).

4) In the field “activity” (or “sports”) must be indicated “ALPINISM”.

5) As Country of stay – Tajikistan.

6) The dates of the insurance policy must be included and coincide with the dates of stay in Tajikistan.

7) The climbers need independently check the compliance of the insurance policy with the requirements above, since Ak-Sai Travel is not responsible for the reliability of the insurance company you have chosen.

Porter service fees:

(4200 – 5300 m) – 10 USD/kg
(5300 – 5800 m) – 15 USD/kg
(5800 – 6300 m) – 20 USD/kg

Gas cylinders (230 g) new – 15 USD/each, 440 g – 25 USD/each

High-altitude tent rental – 80 USD/program

Internet – 5 USD/hour

Accommodation in tents at Moskvin Base Camp – 25 USD per day per tent

Meals:

• Breakfast – 20 USD
• Lunch – 25 USD
• Dinner – 25 USD

• High-altitude double boots – 1 pair
• Trekking boots or sneakers – 1 pair
• Overboots– to your notice
• Down jacket/parka -1
• Sleeping bag – 1
• Sleeping pad – 1
• Backpack – 85L
• Gortex: pants, jacket – 1 suit
• Polartex: pants, jacket – 1 suit
• Thermal underwear – 1 suit
• Polartec gloves – 1 pair
• Overmitts – 1 pair + windproof – 1 pair
• Warm hat – 1
• Balaclava – 1
• Warm socks – 2 pairs
• Socks
• Harness – 1
• Carbines – 4 pieces
• Ice screw – 2 pieces
• Jumar – 1
• Figure-8 descender – 1
• Crampons – 1 pair
• Repshnur – 3 m
• Ice axe – 1
• Telescopic sticks – 1 pair
• Helmet – 1
• Sunglasses – 1 or 2
• Torch (headlamp) -1 + set of spare batteries Sunscreen
• Folding knife – 1
• Thermos – 1
• Cup – 1 / Mug – 1 / Spoon – 1