Communism (Ismoil Somoni) & Korzhenevskaya (Ozodi) Peaks Expedition

The expedition is based at Moskvin Base Camp (4360 m), located at the confluence of the Walter and Moskvin glaciers — the main starting point for both climbs.

The program is structured in two stages:

Stage 1: Korzhenevskaya (Ozodi) Peak (7105 m)

The climb begins with progressive acclimatization through high camps on the South Ridge route above the Moskvin Glacier. This stage helps climbers adapt to prolonged time above 6000 m while attempting one of the Pamir’s classic 7000 m summits.

Stage 2: Communism (Ismoil Somoni) Peak (7495 m)

After recovery, the expedition continues toward the higher and more demanding objective. The route follows the Walter Glacier, Borodkin Ridge, and the vast Pamir Firn Plateau, before the final summit push to the highest point in the Pamirs.

This two-peak structure gives climbers a rare opportunity to attempt two major 7000 m summits in one expedition with a strong acclimatization sequence and shared expedition logistics.

Few expeditions offer access to such a concentrated high-altitude environment.

From Moskvin Base Camp, climbers are surrounded by glaciers, plateaus, and some of the highest summits in Central Asia. The expedition offers:

• the opportunity to attempt two 7000 m peaks in one season
• deep acclimatization across a full expedition program
• remote helicopter access into the heart of the Pamirs
• a classic Soviet-era high-altitude climbing landscape

This is not just a summit attempt, it is a full Pamir expedition season in one program.

This expedition is built around two distinct summit routes from the same remote Base Camp.

Route to Korzhenevskaya (Ozodi) Peak (7105 m)

From Moskvin Base Camp, the route begins with a crossing of the Moskvin Glacier along a marked trail, followed by a short ascent and descent through a canyon before continuing around the southern spur of the mountain.

The climb progresses through a series of high camps:

• Base Camp — 4360 m
• Camp 1 — 5100 m
• Camp 2 — 5300 m
• Camp 3 — 5800 m
• High Bivy — 6100 m
• Summit Camp — 6400 m
• Summit — 7105 m

Key sections of the route include:

• steep scree on the approach to Camp 1
• a snow zone with crevassed traverses above 5300 m
• a technically difficult ice wall
• exposed ridge terrain and mixed climbing between 6100 m and 6400 m
• the final summit section known as the “camel”, with a series of ascents and descents along the ridge

The summit push from 6400 m usually takes 5–6 hours, with descent back to the high camp the same day.

Route to Communism (Ismoil Somoni) Peak (7495 m)

From Moskvin Base Camp, the route begins along the moraine of the Walter Glacier. After crossing the glacier near the “Helipad,” the route continues toward a wide snow shelf leading to the Borodkin Ridge.

The middle and upper sections of this shelf — known as the Snow Pillow — lie in an icefall-prone zone and must be crossed efficiently.

The route continues through:

• Camp 1 — 5100 m
• ascent toward the “Grudi” at around 6300 m
• descent to Camp 2 — 6100 m on the Pamir Firn Plateau
• final ascent from the plateau via the steep snow-and-ice slope known as “Lopata”
• exposed summit ridge leading to the highest point in the Pamirs

The descent typically follows the same route and usually takes two days.

This expedition is best suited for climbers who:

• already have prior experience above 6000 m
• are prepared for a long, demanding high-altitude campaign
• want to attempt multiple major summits in one expedition
• are comfortable with glacier travel, rope systems, and expedition living
• are looking for a serious progression beyond single-peak objectives

This is one of Ak-Sai Travel’s most ambitious Pamir programs, built for experienced mountaineers seeking a true expedition-scale challenge.

The Communism (Ismoil Somoni) & Korzhenevskaya (Ozodi) Peaks Expedition can be climbed in two formats: a guided expedition with professional mountain guides or a self-guided ascent supported by Ak-Sai Travel’s Base Camp logistics, route preparation, and high-altitude infrastructure.

Choose the format that best matches your experience, independence, and expedition goals.

A guided ascent of Korzhenevskaya (Ozodi) Peak and Communism (Ismoil Somoni) Peak follows a 29-day expedition program designed for progressive acclimatization, two summit objectives, and reserve days for weather and safety.

The expedition begins in Dushanbe, continues via Dzhirgital, and reaches Moskvin Base Camp (4360 m) by helicopter.

Weather conditions in the Pamirs can change rapidly, especially above 6000 m.

For safety reasons, the exact summit schedule may vary depending on:

• weather conditions
• route conditions
• team acclimatization and performance

Reserve days are included to maximize the chance of a safe and successful ascent.

Independent climbers can plan their ascent during the main Pamir climbing season (July–August), with logistics coordinated around Base Camp operations, permits, and helicopter access to Moskvin Base Camp.

Arrival dates are more flexible, but must align with:

• helicopter flight windows
• camp operations
• permit and logistics schedules

Helicopter Schedule

Access to and from Moskvin Base Camp is organized by helicopter on scheduled rotation dates.

Planned helicopter dates for 2026:

Final flight timing may vary depending on weather and operational conditions.

Guided Korzhenevskaya (Ozodi) Peak expeditions operate during the main climbing season with fixed departure schedules from Dushanbe.

Each departure follows a full 17-day expedition program from Dushanbe to the summit and back.

Limited group sizes ensure safe guide-to-climber ratios and efficient acclimatization.